Barge Lady Cruises Travel Blog

Kicking Off the New Year with a Free Night in Paris - Courtesy of The Barge Lady!

2012-01-12T16:36:00.000-06:00

A Free Night in Paris - Ooh La La!

We had an incredible 2011 here at The Barge Lady - which included lots of travel to our favorite country of France! Here at home, I was honored to be named a Conde Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist - only 133 in the world - great excitement! We enjoyed matching hundreds of Barge Lady guests to that PERFECT barge and the great feedback when they returned. This is such a HAPPY business! After such a wonderful year we thought what better way to kick off 2012 than with a special offer exclusively for our fabulous Barge Lady guests!

Book a cabin on the Burgundy barge Luciole
for the weeks of:
** April 22-28 **
** May 6-12 **
** May 20-26 **
and receive one free night at the Hotel Mansart in Paris,
courtesy of The Barge Lady. The Hotel Mansart, pictured below, is elegantly located off the Place Vendome on the Right Bank.
Luciole offers great value and cruises on a most idyllic canal in Burgundy.

We also have similar offers in conjunction with barges
Caprice in Southern Burgundy and Meanderer in Upper Loire.
Call us at: 1-800-880-0071 for more details and a
FREE NIGHT IN PARIS!

We wish everyone a happy and healthy New Year!

We are looking forward to a fabulous 2012 filled with travel, starting with a February trip to California where The Barge Lady will be attending a meeting of the Conde Nast Top Travel Specialists! Then in April she's off to Holland for a Tulip Time cruise aboard a Barge Lady and guest favorite, Barge Elisabeth. We also continue to search out value-priced Paris hotels and sightseeing in our favorite city. We will keep you posted on these and other new discoveries in 2012!

Ellen Sack, The Barge Lady Named to Condé Nast Traveler’s Prestigious Top Travel Specialists List!

2011-12-20T14:00:00.000-06:00

Conde Nast Traveler has named moi, Ellen Sack, The Barge Lady as The 2011 Top Travel Specialist for European Canal Barge Cruises!

Conde Nast Traveler recommends only 133 travel specialists using a very rigorous selection process. The Top Traveler Specialists list is run by award-winning, world travel expert Wendy Perrin, the Director of Consumer News for Conde Nast Traveler and author of BL favorite: The Perrin Post , a top travel blog and go to source for smart traveling tips.

In the article, Wendy writes, "The travel planners collected here represent the best blend of destination knowledge, insider connections, user-friendliness, and value for your dollar that I’ve found in more than two decades of scrutinizing the travel industry for this magazine. They have all been road-tested by Condé Nast Traveler readers, editors, or both." This year's Top Travel Specialists were chosen from more than 10,000 applicants, making it statistically more difficult to make the cut than getting accepted to Harvard! This list was announced in the December 2011 issue, both in the paper copy and on the Conde Nast Traveler website.

While I have been honored with other industry accolades, being named to the Top Travel Specialists List is really a career high. It has been thrilling to be recognized for my 25 years of service to the barge cruise industry and to hear from so many guests and colleagues when the award was announced.

The excitement will continue in early February at the Travel Specialist Summit, when all 133 Specialists will meet at the Terranea Resort in Rancho Palos Verdes, California. Also in attendance will be the top Conde Nast editors and major suppliers, so this promises to be a real education in the marketing of luxury travel.


Ellen, The Barge Lady with husband Nick, on a barge cruise aboard La Nouvelle Etoile in Champagne, France

Intimate Burgundy + Ultimate Pampering aboard Papillon

2011-10-23T09:00:00.000-05:00

"We boarded Papillon in the afternoon taking a minute to admire the beautifully flowered deck before heading inside. As we stepped into the salon we were enveloped by the French country charm that oozes throughout Papillon. I loved it! It felt like our own adorable personal hideaway on the Burgundy canals. The attention to detail in the décor is apparent and second only to the attention to detail provided by Papillon’s wonderful crew. Captain Cedric, Host Emma and Chef Sarah truly went out of their way to pamper us! It is no wonder they are regarded as some of the top crew in barging.

We headed back to our cabins which were cozy, light and adorned with beautiful fabrics and wallpaper. The bathrooms are spacious and boast gorgeous tiling. I especially liked the convenience of having sink separate from the bathroom.

After getting settled, we sauntered up to the deck for an afternoon cruise to find afternoon tea and cookies awaiting us! I don’t think there is anything quite as relaxing as enjoying a cup of tea watching the beautiful Burgundy countryside float by. After tea we jumped off at a lock for a bicycle ride and a little exploring.

Chef Sarah wowed us at every meal. Even with severe tooth pain (brought on by an unfortunate abscessed tooth that decided to rear its head on the last leg of our trip) I could not get enough – it was so good it helped dull the pain! The duck breast with balsamic sauce she served as our main the first night melted in my mouth - it was impeccable! Our second night Sarah prepared an amazing pumpkin soup using pumpkins she had purchased on our trip to the Montbard market that morning. I don't think there was ever a spot of food left on either of our plates.

After we visited the Montbard market, Emma took us to the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois, where she gave us a walking tour and an opportunity to shop in some of the cute stores. (I picked up some black truffle seasoning salt and a fantastic almond apricot jam which is sadly already gone) When we returned Sarah had a delicious lunch of fresh salads, charcuterie, terrines and pates ready for us. After lunch Cedric took us to the Cistercian Abbey of Fontaney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the adorable village of Flavigny where the movie Chocolat was filmed. All too soon it was time for our last dinner on Papillon. Sarah's decadent Molten Chocolate Cakewith fresh berriesand Creme Anglais was the perfect ending to another amazing meal.

Even though we were only had two nights on Papillon, Sarah, Emma and Cedric made sure that we got the most out of those days. We felt like personal friends that had come to visit. We were very sad to leave come Saturday morning, but happy to have made new friends and wonderful memories aboard Papillon! "

Gourmet Cruising in Burgundy-Beaujolais - A France Sojourn Indeed!

2011-10-11T18:23:00.002-05:00

In August 2011, Barge Lady Creative Director Kelly and her mother Terri Snyder were among the first to experience Sojourn’s Burgundy-Beaujolais route on a four day cruise with an abbreviated itinerary.

"We arrived at Sojourn moored in Chalon sur Saone, a charming town on the River Saone. As I stepped inside I was stuck at how light and spacious the bar area, salon and dining room feel. The ambiance of Sojourn is French country charm meets Beverly Hills glamour. It is like being in the sophisticated and elegant home of good friends with great taste! Large picture windows line the public spaces, filling them with natural light and views of the beautiful scenery. I loved the light wood floors and paneling throughout Sojourn.

Sojourn's Salon

After a champagne welcome, introduction to our crew and a quick tour of the barge, we are taken to the “orange cabin”, our room for the next week. I immediately noticed the desk and “Hollywood dressing room mirror” – this will definitely come in handy.

The rooms are fun and colorful; the beds dressed in custom-made linens. There is plenty of storage space with a closet in both the bedroom and bathroom – as well as a little pull-out drawer under the bed (as a notorious over-packer I appreciated this) The bathrooms are big by barge standards with heated towel racks and Redken products in the shower.

We settled into our cabin, then headed upstairs to enjoy some aperitifs and conversation in the before dinner. Our first dinner set the tone for the gourmet week ahead - absolutely delicious!

Warm Goat Cheese Salad

Champagne Grapes

Light Honey Dressing

* * *

Sauteed, then Grilled Hake

Shallot & Parsley Beurre Blanc

Roasted Potatoes
Haricot Vert and Round Carrots

* * *

Reblechon, Brie and Beaufort

* * *

Homemade Strawberry Ice Cream

Fresh Strawberries

Lemon Almond Tuille

Throughout the week Chef Ollie continued to delight us with indulgent dinners and bountiful buffet lunches showcasing fresh herbs and local produce. Here I am at right nibbling on the Parmesan crisp that perfectly complimented her fresh tomato bisque. One night she used pressed pine nut oil from the Huiliere in Beaujeu we visited earlier that day - a pleasant surprise and quickly devoured by all. After dinner we enjoyed chocolates and a little more wine in the salon along with a lively game of Catchphrase with our fellow bargers. This became a habit and somewhat fierce but hilarious competition by the end of the week.

The next morning we had some time after breakfast to explore Chalon-sur-Saone, a charming town with cobblestoned streets and cute square, pictured at left. I used this opportunity to take a morning run around the town - much more enjoyable with the scenic backdrop! I figured with all the amazing food and wine I would thank myself later.

Then it was back to Sojourn where we set off on the Saone cruising towards Tournus. After a couple hours of cruising and a delicious buffet lunch on board (where I cancelled out my morning run by going back for a second and then third gougere) it was off to Chateau Cormatin. The tour of Chateau Cormatin, with its moat, beautiful gardens and maze was fascinating. After the tour we strolled around the gardens and my mom attempted the maze. I was not quite as adventurous.

Visiting the adorable town of Beaujeu the next day, was one of many highlights. There we enjoyed a winetasting and later sampled oils at Huilerie Beaujolais, a local oil producer's boutique, famous for its freshly pressed nut oils. Foodie that I am, I somehow managed to restrain myself and bought only some pine nut oil and a small bottle of mango balsamic. However, now that I am back in Chicago and experimenting with my souvenirs, I'm wishing I hadn't put the other oils back!

Another thing I really enjoyed about this route was time to walk around and explore the different towns Sojourn moored at each night, Lyon being my favorite. On our last day we cruised into Lyon and had a lovely alfresco lunch moored right in the center of this enchanting city. We loved the shopping, the Old Town, and the many squares and public spaces. Here we are (at left) at a merry-go-round, set up for families to gather around and enjoy! Our last dinner on board (featuring a succulent Magret de Canard with a Juniper sherry sauce - OMG) reflected the excitement of Lyon, with many shared memories of our all-too-brief cruise on Sojourn. We hope to return!"

Barge Lady Jr.'s Burgundy Adventure Part 2

2011-06-16T18:41:00.001-05:00

Continuing her Burgundy escapades, Barge Lady Jr, had the chance to hop aboard Bonheur and Alouette for a quick visit.

“Bonheur was delightfully charming and comfortable. Over the winter, the entire vessel was air-conditioned and the two cabins re-decorated. They both are now blue and white with a Provencal-inspired theme. I was happy to be among the first in barging to see these new cabins! Annie’s “eye” and attention to detail are evident the moment one boards. Never have I seen such extensive and beautiful on-deck floral displays! Paul has announced some new programming for 2011, including a Tasting Lunch at Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet, at which 14 vintages will be tasted, and also a second lunch off the barge in the village of Volnay on the way to Beaune. Our guests love Bonheur – and so do I!”

Caroline on Bonheur with owners Paul and Annie

"On my visit to the barges of Orient Express in Burgundy, I was delightfully surprised to board Alouette, a vessel that we have not seen in many years. Never have I experienced such love at first sight! I had found my ‘barge soul mate'! Alouette exudes comfort and airy charm, with a soft color scheme of blue, yellow and cream uniting all of the interior areas. The light-filled salon invited you to relax, while the cabins beckoned with elegant bedding and perfectly matched pillows. Cooking demonstrations are offered in the unusually large kitchen. This pretty barge feels different from anything else offered on the canals. I hope to return soon to my beloved Alouette!”

The picturesque salon of Aloutte... aka Caroline's barge soulmate.

Barge Lady Jr's Burgundy Adventure Part 1

2011-06-07T18:07:00.000-05:00

Caroline Sack Klein, aka Barge Lady Junior was thrilled to join top industry colleagues for a three night cruise aboard Amaryllis in April. The last time we boarded this divine vessel was on its maiden voyage in 2002! Since then, Amaryllis has been acquired by Orient-Express who has maintained the barge and its operation to the highest “grand luxe” standards.

“My trip started in Paris with a night at the San Regis, an elegant jewel-box of a hotel that began life as a mansion built in 1857. This is a very fine choice in Paris for Orient-Express guests. The next day, I was chauffeured to Amaryllis, moored in St. Leger. Joining me was Valerie Ottofaro, an old friend and our account executive in the U.S. and Rory and Caroline Macrae, industry veterans who manage the five Orient-Express barges in France.

I boarded to discover a vessel of supreme elegance. From antique furniture in the salon, to lamps and chandeliers created by Italian craftsmen to Villeroy and Bosch china on the dining room table: The public areas are a treasure trove of classic European design.

The elegant salon aboard Amaryllis

In the huge cabins, however, the accent is on voluptuous comfort. King size beds are piled high with elegant pillows and comforters. Each room has a different color scheme: crimson, bayberry-aqua, pale gold and royal blue. Closets are huge with wonderful lighting and full-length mirrors. The spacious and elegantly tiled baths have every amenity, including double sinks and heated towel bars. Also heated is the pool on deck - a fabulous and unexpected amenity!

A Suite onboard Amaryllis

Since Amaryllis looks like a five star hotel, it is only fitting that it is operated like one! The crew of five magically ensured that the vessel was spotless and that each guest was constantly being pampered. The more details I noticed, the more that seemed to appear - constant refilling of the shampoo and soap bottles, linens that were changed every time I left my cabin, new coasters with every cocktail hour, different candies everyday in the candy bowl, the list goes on and on. The best part is that it just "happened" by seemingly invisible fairy godmothers. Such synergy and magic occur to make it special for 8 lucky guests!

Another topic to address...the FOOD! The creative dishes were meticulously prepared with love and passion, which was evident in each bite I savored! Below are two of the meals I enjoyed on board - and of course pictures!

A memorable alfresco lunch on board Amaryllis

~ Lunch on Deck ~

Caesar Salad
* * *
Tomato Tart
with
Olive Tapenade
Basil Vinaigrette
* * *
Fresh Tuna
with a
Mango Salsa
* * *
Escargot
* * *
Mixed Leaf Salad

~ Dinner ~

Foie Gras
with a
Vin Chaud Syrup

* * *
Scallops in Curried Polenta Crust
Orange Scented Broth
* * *
Fillet of Beef
Roasted Butternut Squash
with
Lobster,
Bernaise Saffron Sauce,
Tomato Concase
* * *

Cheese Platter

* * *
Mini Desserts of:
Passion Fruit Sorbet
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Chocolate Fondant
Rhoubarb and Bourbon Crumble
Mint and Malibu Milkshake

Hotel Dieu in Beaune

A visit to Beaune, a cobble-stoned town of great charm, was the highlight of our sightseeing. We toured the Medieval hospital, Hotel Dieu, a stunning example of French fifteenth-century architecture.

There was also time to explore the town (and of course shop) before being treated to a special wine-tasting in the cellars of Maison Drouhin, one of the top winemakers based in Beaune! It was the perfect way to top off an interesting tour of this fascinating town.

Wine-tasting at Maison Drouhin

All too soon my time aboard Amaryllis came to an end and it was time to continue my travels (onwards and upwards as Barge Lady would say) in Burgundy.

The onboard luxury, delicious food and the warm welcome and outstanding service provided by our crew will not soon be forgotten.

Our guests rightfully love the Amaryllis – and now so do I!”

New Irish Cuisine Reigns Supreme in Barging!

2011-03-17T14:08:00.000-05:00

In honor of St. Patrick's Day, we present the 10-passenger barge SHANNON PRINCESS, cruising through the heart of Ireland on the Shannon Waterway. On board, you will enjoy the best of that personal, Irish hospitality from Captain Ruairi Gibbons and Chef Olivia Power - and that includes the divine "New Irish Cuisine' produced in Olivia's floating galley! She is a graduate of the prestigious Ballymaloe Cookery School and part of a movement dedicated to fresh ingredients and updating the traditional foods.

Chef Olivia says, "We choose our free range and organic ingredients from dedicated local producers with a genuine love of food. Our handmade Farmhouse cheeses are unique to each cheese maker's farm and their dairy herd."

Please lick your lips over our delicious menu below - and as a special treat, we present the recipe for Guinness Stout Cake to reproduce in your own kitchen.

Welcome Aboard Dinner

From our Galley Oven
Thyme & Merlot Onion Focaccia & Sourdough Breads
with flavored dipping oils

Amuse Bouche
Wild Garlic & Nettle Soup

To Start
Pan-seared Foie Gras on Vanilla French toast Waffles
with
Gooseberry & Verbena Compote

Sorbet
Lemon & Golden Marjoram Sorbet

Main Course
Seared King Scallops
with a

Soufflé of Saffron & Crab
Grilled Young Chicory with a Gazpacho Broth
Herb & Baby Leaf Salad

Cheese Course
Killaloe Farmers Market Cheeses
with
Walnut Bread & Membrillo Jelly
Vintage Port & Fresh Fruits

Dessert
Figs with a Hot Foaming Elderflower Sabayon & Crisp Almond Tuiles

To Follow
Handmade Petit Fours
with Liqueur Coffees, Herb Infusion Teas, or Cognac
***

A Special Recipe - From Chef Olivia's Kitchen... to Your Kitchen!

Guinness Stout Cake

A taste of Ireland's favorite drink made into a delicious cake.

Shannon Princess guests LOVE this dessert!

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons cream flour
1 cup plus 1.5 tablespoons unrefined sugar
1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1/2 teaspoon of salt
1 large egg
1/2 cup plus 2 generous teaspoons butter
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons natural yogurt or butter milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons cocoa
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of Guinness Stout

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees
Prepare your cake tin by lining with parchment paper

In a large mixing bowl sieve all the dry ingredients together. Then lightly whisk the egg, vanilla and buttermilk/or yogurt in a jug. Next melt the butter, cocoa and the Guinness in a saucepan, When it is just melted stir it smooth making sure there are no lumps. Now mix all ingredients together, pour into the prepared tin and bake for approx 45 minutes or when a tester comes out clean. Let to stand for 30 minutes before turning out from its tin. Turn out and cool on a wire rack.

To serve

Dust with cocoa & serve with softly whipped cream or ice with a chocolate butter cream.

The barge SHANNON PRINCESS cruises from mid-April to the end of October, 2011. Six night cruises depart every Sunday from Dublin, return the following Saturday. The cruise fare of $4,200 per person in a double occupancy cabin includes the chauffeured transfer to/from Dublin to the route, all meals, wine with meals, open bar, daily chauffeured sightseeing and TLC from your all-Irish crew of five. Book a SHANNON PRINCESS cruise, plus two or three nights in Dublin - viola! Think of this barge for WHOLE BOAT CHARTERS, too! Perfect for families and groups of couples!

Ellen Attends the Orient Express “Barging Think Tank” in Charleston, South Carolina

2011-03-11T16:48:00.001-06:00

I was thrilled to attend a brand new industry event, the recent “Think Tank” organized by Orient Express – a company well known for its top- of- the- line hotels, resorts, trains, and, yes, barges. Among their fleet is the Fleur de Lys, France’s original Ultra-Deluxe barge (pictured below) and the Napoleon, another Ultra-Deluxe rated vessel and the only barge that cruises the length of the River Rhone in Provence.

Ultra-Deluxe Barge Fleur de Lys cruising the canals in Burgundy France.

Asked to this elite meeting of the minds were representatives from the top four barge booking companies worldwide. Orient Express then brought to us virtually everyone in the company whose portfolio touches the barging product: From on-site operations in France, booking and sales in the U.S. and revenue management in the U.K. Among this group were many old and dear friends, people with whom I have enjoyed working for decades.

The fabulous Charleston Place Hotel in Charleston, South Carolina

The U.S. offices of Orient Express are now based in Charleston, and of course, we stayed at their hotel there, Charleston Place (pictured above). Travelers to Charleston should think of checking in nowhere else! Guests will stay in the absolute top location in town on King Street, which is lined with elegant fashion, antiques and jewelry boutique; also within walking distance to all the top sights and neighborhoods. We were lucky enough to stay on the Club Floors where the petite buffets laid out for breakfast, late afternoon tea and light dinner were amazing. Cuisine in the hotel restaurant, Charleston Grill, was original and delicious.

Our all day meeting touched on many topics. This is a company totally devoted to quality in every aspect and for 2011, there have been a number of major upgrades - such as chauffeured transfers to several of the barges. Smaller, but no less important thoughtful touches to be implemented in 2011 include brand new custom-made VTC bicycles across the fleet, embroidered bedroom slippers, and a wider choice of excursions. We were briefed by Rory and Caroline Macrae, who operate the barges in France, and who have done such a great job for our guests.

Ellen,(center) with Rory and Caroline Macrae of Orient Express

When not in serious meetings, we were eating, drinking, reminiscing and laughing at lovely venues all over Charleston, including drinks on an elegant terrace where we watched the sun set. We in barging often refer to ourselves as a family and this feeling was alive and well in Charleston.

Dine Around Cruise in Burgundy!

2011-03-02T15:53:00.025-06:00

Savoir Vivre Restaurant Guide 2011

Dine Around In Burgundy!

One of the core values of “The Savoir Vivre Way” is our All-Inclusive on shore evening dining format. As we see it, if you come to France to experience its culture and food then the best way is is to explore authentic local restaurants. The services of a private chef is very nice (we use one for our lunch service), but you are missing a significant part of the French experience if you don't visit its restaurants. To illustrate this subtle but very important difference, we invite you to find out more about our restaurants with our comprehensive guide.

The Restaurants

If you look on the internet you may find a website or Trip Advisor recommendation for our restaurants. Or you may not! If you look at our guest book, you will find guests who were frankly blown away by the variety, authenticity and exceptional quality of the dining experiences they enjoyed. Quite simply the traditional local chef-patron restaurants we visit embody the original French gastronomic tradition where one lives by ones reputation. They have been selected by François Everson (your Guide,a veteran barger and a Burgundy expert) and, credit to his judgement, we have not made a single change to this years restaurant selection. As you scroll down you will find information covering the history, ownership, specialties and the occasional fascinating stories behind the culinary adventure that awaits you on your Savoir Vivre cruise.

L'Auberge Gourmande
A friendly and warm welcome awaits you by Delphine and Christophe Faivre at the L'Auberge Gourmande. Situated in Velars-sur-Ouche, Delphine and Christophe's goal is no less than “to satisfy all your desires and we will spare no effort in doing so. We want our guests enjoy quality service and we strive to offer all the comfort you deserve.”The restaurant is located on a quiet street in this typical village and has two rooms with elegant décor, air conditioning and a pleasant terrace outside.Head Chef Christophe learned his craft at the Moulin de Saint Remy Martorey, Guy Savoy,Negresco, Girardet in Switzerland as well as spending seven years abroad (Tel Aviv, Israel,Brazil Rio, London, and on a private yacht for a billionaire Englishman). So his credentials speak volumes! The result of all this effort?

A recent restaurant critic declared that this restaurant offers a “pleasant setting for a restaurant that that is going places, the food was exquisite”.

Menu Highlights

Specialties Include:

Eggplant Tartare with Balsamic Vinegar,
Espuma Melon Lemon Balm

Cromes Quis Fried Ham with Parsley
Burgundy Escargot, Hummus, and Wild Garlic
Confit of Lamb Shoulder in
Kefta stuffed Tomato Juice Concentrate,
Rosemary and Paprika

Its no surprise that this restaurant is tipped for big things, we've caught it during its ascendency, we think this is the “Savoir Vivre” time to visit!

L'Eire du Temps
This more simple restaurant has delighted the inhabitants of the Ouche Valley since its inception two years ago. Dining on the outside terrace surrounded by golden-hued, century old buildings only adds to the charm. The restaurant is located on the town hall square,has a lovely view over the valley and is near to the
famous “Jardins de Barbirey”. What you may have spotted is the deliberately misspelled name! “L'Eire du Temps” as opposed to “L'Aire du Temps” which itself is a somewhat complex expression which plays on semantics to do with the range and changes of time and mood. ANYWAY! The Eire bit hints at the innovative interpretation this restaurant takes to French cuisine by Theresa Pageault, the Irish owner and her head chef Selby Clements. Since opening, the restaurant has quickly built up a keen and loyal following from those who appreciate its lovely location and ever changing& creative menu.

Menu Highlights

Selby's menu blends traditional French and Irish specialties. This includes:
'ridiculously tasty' Oeufs en Meurette,
Beef with Guinness and
the 200 year old favorite, Irish Stew

If you're feeling a little 'wined out' then there is Guinness available all year round! As an interesting and casual alternative, L'Eire du Temps has proven a tremendous success with Savoir Vivre's guests and we're pleased to include it again for our 2011 season.

Ferme de Rolle
Long before her Michelin Star grade owners took residence, the site of the Ferme de Rolle experienced a fascinating history involving peasants, pig farmers, and soldiers gaining a strategic advantage. Over century ago sixteen households (pop. 30)lived in and around the current building – three wells assured water supply to the modest community.In 1933 the buildings and surrounding land were converted into a pig farm! A Mr. George Flacelière developed and later sold the farm to a Mr Denvin. However, during the Second World War, in addition to his pigs, Mr Denvin played host to the Canadian allies. The site held a strong position being very close to the farm of La Belle Emélia Saint-Jean-de-Boeuf,occupied by the German army.In 1975 the entire site was given a new lease of life through its conversion into a fabulous restaurant which it has remained ever since. Since spring 2004, the Sangoy family, who previously owned the Michelin Star awarded Gevrey-Chambertin', have taken the restaurants to new gastronomic heights.

Menu Highlights

The house specialty is ham roasted over open spit. This hearty traditionally prepared dish compliments this wonderfully historic restaurant.
This is a very special restaurant in the countryside of Burgundy and “the Routedes Grands Crus”, it quite rightly sits at the heart of our restaurant selection.

Auberge Saint Martin
Located in the commune of Bouilland near the historic L'Abbaye Sainte-Marguerite and nestled at the foot of magnificent limestone cliffs, the Auberge Saint Martin occupies a building who's structure dates back to the18thcentury. This charming stone inn is a lovely location in which to experience authentic Burgundian cooking where the freshness and quality of the ingredients used underpin the taste of each dish. Owner and Chef, Marie Luce and Didier Pouletare rightly proud of their Michelin Guide listing and title of “Master Restaurateur de France”.

MenuHighlights
The house specializations are three fold -
Charolaise Beef Fillet with a signature sauce
Ham with Parsley
Coq Au Vin
The very simplicity of these dishes indicates how Mr Poulet keeps his flock of diners coming back again and again – he uses the finest and freshest ingredients he can find and then blends them simply, skilfully and elegantly. Mr Poulet's goal when serving guests is equally elegant - “Our only goal is to ensure you enjoy your time in Bouilland”. Rather fittingly, we'll leave the description of this restaurant just as Mr Poulet would like it, clean simple and without any fuss.

Château Sainte Sabine
The setting for this opulent restaurant is within the magnificent Château Sainte-Sabine, a 17thcentury castle built in an old monastery.Château de Sainte-Sabine sits in grounds of 8 hectares where their farm animals roam freely and share in the unique setting overlooking the medieval village of Chateauneuf-en-Auxois.While the beautiful site also hosts a hotel, it is the restaurant we are interested in! Open since 1991 the it offers a dedicated and refined interpretation of creative gourmet and traditional cuisine which, as ever with high quality dining in France, is created through the use of fresh locally sourced produce. The head chef, Gaëtan Potherat, has something of a burgeoning reputation.

A recent review (translated) extolled his skills in producing
“gastronomic music which he creates with the ingredients provided by the soil of Burgundy.A moment of pure happiness which will remain with my taste buds for a longtime.”

We're sure you'll agree it is a promise worth experiencing! This restaurant is one of the more formal highlights of our restaurant itinerary. We seek to offer a pleasant mix of styles and formality on our cruise. As an authentic gastronomic and historical experience, this restaurant earns its place on our itinerary with honors.

Restaurant de l'Auxois
After soaking in the atmosphere of this charming little port where you will likely find boats of all descriptions huddled at the base of the hill on which Chateauneuf en Auxois sits, we invite you to take note of the names of the owners of Restaurant de l'Auxois - Angelika and Hans Juchem. Not very French sounding? You'd be right, they are a German couple who fell so in love with the area that they decided to sell their long established French restaurant in Frankfurt and open a new chapter in their lives with a French restaurant in France! It's a decision for which they hold no regrets whatsoever – their restaurant enjoys an enviable reputation with a loyal following from locals and visitors alike.

Hans is the head chef who has spent a lifetime specializing in French (and some Italian) style cuisine. His style is a pleasant mix of traditional and modern where presentation counts but does not get in the way of the taste of his creations. The vibrant and enthusiastic Ms. Juchem's talents know no bounds. Not only does she have a in-depth knowledge of the menu and techniques used in the preparation of each dish, she can tell you about them in your choice of four languages! Central to Hans and Angelika's success is the respect they have given to maintain the authenticity of their restaurant's interior and layout. An abundance of stone archways, exposed beams and a central fireplace lend the restaurant a very typical and welcoming casual elegance where guests feel at ease to enjoy each others company and the abundant hospitality provided by Angelika and Hans.

For more information about a "dine around cruise in Burgundy" aboard Savoir Vivre visit www.bargelady.com, where you will find cruise dates and rates, pictures, a sample itinerary, floor plan and guest feed back.

Barging in Burgundy - A Once in a Lifetime Travel Opportunity on the barge PAPILLON

2009-12-08T10:35:00.012-06:00

Did you ever think about the perfect vacation and what that would be? Well here’s your answer – barging in Burgundy on Le Papillon. This experience is the epitome of what you would expect from a hotel barge. It’s an intimate setting for six lucky guests supported by a dream team staff of four. You couldn’t imagine a better situation.

Our dream vacation started on July 5, 2009 arriving at the gangplank of Le Papillon from Paris chauffeured by Michael, who would be our guide for the week. Sarah, Haley and Cedric were there to greet us with champagne, show us to our berths, and then invited us to relax on deck while the finishing touches were made to dinner. Our mooring was right across from a typical stone cottage we would find time and again on our trip down the Canal de Bourgogne, complete with climbing roses over the front door. The weather was perfect while we sipped our aperitif, and shortly Haley invited us down to the dining salon for dinner.

The table was set for six, with beautiful linens (which would change daily from meal to meal), fresh flowers on the buffet, candles, multiple wine glasses and more, making us feel as though we were royalty. Once seated, our appetizer was served, and Sarah, the chef, poked her head around the corner of the kitchen to tell us what we were having and wished us a cheery, “Bon appétit!” in her lovely British accent. Exquisite in presentation and taste, from the appetizer of Chevre chaud au salade mesclun to the entree of Carre d’agneaux, to a stupendous dessert of tarte tatin, with a sampling of two “lovely, melt in your mouth” local cheeses as described by Haley, and plenty of Chablis and Burgundy to accompany the feast, we were simply blown away by this meal, the first of a week-long sampling of some of the finest food we have had.

How could the evening get better? A digestive on the deck, then a short walk under an almost full moon to the small hamlet of Fleury sur Ouche topped off the night, before we headed to bed.
In our cabins there were many thoughtful little touches, flashlights in case of emergency, fresh flowers, scented soaps, Ferrero Rocher chocolates (which mysteriously replenished themselves every day), crisply ironed sheets, comfy pillows and warm comforter. We drifted off to sleep to the sounds of crickets and water lapping at the boat through our open portals.

Monday morning, we were awakened early by birdsong and a rather loud rooster, which was good, because it was our first full day on board and we were excited to see how the day would go. Greeted by sunshine and blue skies, we sat down to a delicious breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice, fruit, yogurt, bread and croissants from a nearby bakery, granola and lots of café au lait. We got underway around 9:30 and made our way through the first of the forty-one locks we would travel through in the course of the week. Larry and I debarked and walked along the canal, knowing we would need to exercise to keep even with the caloric intake we expected to consume during the coming week. It was beautiful – lots of wildflowers adorned the sides of the path and we waited at each lock for Le Papillon to catch up. We hopped back on before the last lock of the morning then headed in for lunch.

Back to the barge in time for a little more cruising to our final destination for the day so Larry and I hopped on the bikes and forged the way. We met up with the barge at Gissey sur Ouche, another quaint little town along the canal. A cocktail, a shower, then dinner was served. Could Sarah possible top what she had served the night before? Ah yes, and she did the same every night we were on the barge. Cold pea soup with mint, poached salmon with hollandaise, sautéed spinach, basmati rice and then our cheese course. We barely had room for the chocolate soufflés that came out next, but somehow we managed to eat every last scrap of the dessert. Not a crumb was left in any dish! Coffee on deck as the dusk settled in around us, listening to the sound of water running through the lock that we’ll go through tomorrow – what could be more idyllic? Off to bed serenaded by birdsong. Did I mention those chocolates that kept replenishing themselves?

Tuesday was a long, lazy day and we were up early to take a trip into Dijon for the weekly market and to visit historical sites. Sarah escorted us around the market talking about local produce, meats, and cheeses, then Michael gave us a fascinating tour of the city. His knowledge of history was extensive, and he gave us a detailed, “Cliff Notes” version of the lineage and rule of the Dukes of Burgundy. Pretty complex, a few double crosses here and there, alliances by marriage, the Bold, the Fearless, the Good and much more. We had to fall back on the guide book later to sort it all out. We walked around town with Michael noting points of interest and took turns rubbing a little carved ochuette (owl) on the side of the 13th century church for good luck and a long, healthy life as long as you used your left hand!

Back at the boat, we were greeted with a lunch repast of treats from the market – hard sausage, country pate, goose liver pate, tomato and mozzarella salad, tabouleh salad, luscious cherries, fresh bread, our requisite two cheeses and of course, a white and red wine. After lunch, we set sail and Larry and I started out walking, then switched to the bikes and rode to the next stopping point at Pont d’Ouche. We took side trips up into the villages we passed, getting a little glimpse into life in the French countryside.

Our dinner this evening was at a restaurant, La Ferme de Rol, tucked into the hillside about a 25 minute drive from our mooring. At our urging, we asked Michael to join us as he felt like a natural part of our group. We had fun trying out the specialties of the house from escargot, to a well-known ham, mixed grill and pork tenderloin. A wonderfully diverse cheese tray and various desserts topped off the meal along with a couple of bottles of wine. Ken, one of our traveling partners, rode shotgun looking for wild boar and deer on the way back to the barge as twilight settled in. Sarah, Cedric and Michael hung out with us while we chatted about the day’s events. A perfect ending to another amazing day on Le Papillon!

Wednesday (how can it be Wednesday already), dawned cool with mixed clouds and sun but that didn’t dampen our spirits (or our appetites). We cruised in the morning, and Larry and I walked about two hours before hopping back on board. We moored along the canal with a stupendous view of Chateauneuf – a landmark we had been seeing all morning as we made our way down the canal. Before we headed out for the afternoon trip to Beaune, we feasted on the most delicious, rich quiche of swiss chard, a fresh pea, carrot and bean salad with homemade mayonnaise (made daily), wild rice salad with cucumbers, walnuts, raisins and tomatoes, fresh artichoke hearts, and cheese, wine and bread. A little fresh flower was tucked into our napkins – just one of the many ways Haley decorated our table for each meal.

Beaune, our destination for the afternoon, was a fascinating place and our first stop was at the Hotel Dieu, a hospital for the poor built by a wealthy couple, Nicholas and Guigone Rolin, in the mid 1400’s as a way to redeem their souls before leaving this earth. In addition, they bequeathed vineyards to the hospital as a means of supporting the operating expenses. The wine from the vineyards is auctioned off every year to this day, the benefits going to the hospital. The most incredible artifact of the day was a beautiful painting by Roger Van der Weyden depicting the Last Judgment. A polyptych, painted in the 15th century, it was displayed above the altar to remind the sick of their mortality and to encourage them to repent their sins while they still had the chance. Very moving and certainly made me take notice of the difference between heaven and hell as depicted in the painting!

After touring the Hotel Dieu, we poked around Beaune, bought some wine and headed back to Le Papillon for a cocktail on deck, wondering what delectable dishes we would be having tonight. Not disappointed, Sarah served us escargots forestiere, roasted quail, celeriac and mashed potatoes, petit pois, and polenta aux herbes. We finished with two delicious cheeses (how could there be so many varieties) and a gateaux gingembre with crème anglaise with framboise. We were so full, the group decided to take a walk and we set our sights on the Chateauneuf! It was a lovely stroll, although the road up to the village was steep and we had to keep focused on the objective. We were rewarded with wonderful views, and as the sun set, the last rays of daylight lit up the chateau and surrounding country.
As we headed back to the barge, we joked about the crew worrying about their guests getting lost in the dark in the French countryside. They were surprised we walked all the way to the chateau and I think relieved that we made it back in one piece. We enjoyed a cognac and then headed off to bed.

Thursday, we cruised in the morning along another beautiful stretch of the canal, with lots of Charollais cattle everywhere, neat gardens, flowers tucked in and around quaint old houses.
On foot once again, we enjoyed the abundance of wildflowers, and felt like we saw so much more by walking. Larry continued to take pictures of each “ecluse” and hopefully we can put together a poster of them when we get home. We met up with the barge at the last lock before docking, then sat down to another fantastic lunch. Poached eggs over toast with a red wine and mushroom sauce, mixed salad, and homemade peach ice cream for dessert. Cheese and wine of course, was a highlight of lunch.

Our destination after lunch was - Chateauneuf! Fortunately, we had not gone into the village on our walk, knowing we would be visiting it today. Michael gave us an extraordinary tour of the chateau, we walked around the village, enjoyed the views and had a wonderful afternoon, swinging by one of the reservoirs that feeds the canal on the way back to the barge and driving into Pouilly, to see where the canal exits the 3 kilometer tunnel that’s under the city.

We had a special treat in store for us tonight, Armel and Roland were our entertainment before dinner. They sang and played French and Belgian songs for us. Roland was an amazing piano player and had a great voice, and Armel, was sexy and sultry as she went through their repertoire of music. A perfect touch for cruising through Burgundy and we enjoyed their performance immensely.

Dinner was later because of the entertainment, and since it was John’s birthday, we celebrated in style with birthday hats and balloons. Chestnut soup with croutons and duck pate, followed by fish with sauce verte and fresh tomato salsa and rice pilaf, our cheese tray, then birthday cake with crème fraiche and warm berry sauce. To end the meal we had a champagne birthday toast to John by all, including the crew – a perfect way to celebrate such an auspicious day.

Friday, and sadly our last day, we felt like we wanted to mutiny and take over the barge living on it for the rest of the summer, eating Sarah’s delicious meals. But alas, we knew we couldn’t do that so we tried our best to lock in every memory of that day. We started early, heading out at 6:15 am for a hot air balloon ride over the Burgundy countryside. It was our party’s first ride, and Haley and Armel came along to experience one of the most amazing events any of us have had. We jumped in the basket, and with a few blasts of hot air and we were off the ground in seconds. The ground crew unhooked us and we were off!
What an amazing thing to view the world from a hot air balloon. Your whole perspective changes as all that is familiar gets smaller and smaller while you float along on the wind currents. The cows below didn’t particularly like us and they would look up and bellow, then race off in a panic. We glided along for an hour until our expert pilot set us down precisely between two wheat fields on a dirt road. The farmer wasn’t too happy, and he came out to tell us so, but the balloon did not damage the wheat and we all helped to pack it up and get the basket and balloon back on the trailer, celebrating afterwards with a little champagne!

When we returned to Le Papillon, we had breakfast, then launched for our final trip on the canal through the tunnel. It was a little creepy, damp and dark, but Cedric guided the barge through it without a hitch. We were glad to see daylight on the other side and we moored at our final destination – Pouilly en Auxois. It was a little sad knowing this was our last spot, but nevertheless, we took off on one last excursion to Fontenay Abbey. Once again we were treated to an astounding setting, beautiful grounds and buildings restored at various stages in its history by the Aynard family. They have done an incredible job of restoring the abbey over the years and we spent a couple of hours wandering through the buildings. On our return trip, we stopped at Semur en Auxois to walk through the medieval city admiring the architecture and remains of the fortifications. Then we loaded up into the trusty VW van and made our way back to the barge.

Our last night was bittersweet, knowing this would be the end to a wonderful week of friendship, learning about French history and culture, enjoying gourmet meals and being spoiled as guests of Le Papillon. But we threw ourselves into the festivities, enjoying our final stupendous meal, starting with a delectable crab cake, then duck with sautéed radishes, haricot verte, patate douce, our cheese course and ending the meal with pannecotta au citron. More champagne, conversations with the crew, then we reluctantly headed off to our cabins to pack and get ready for an early departure the next morning.

Looking back on our week on the barge, we were soothed by the warm hospitality of the crew who saw to our every need. We delighted in the comforts of the barge itself, intimate and cozy with a great deck to sit on and simply watch the scenery go by. We enjoyed the walking and bike riding, spending time together without the intrusions of the everyday stresses of life – work, caring for aging parents, household chores and more. We appreciated the fresh foods we ate, and the expert way they were made into something extraordinary three times a day for us. We left Le Papillon with hugs, kisses on both cheeks and a moist eye, knowing we would miss the leisurely pace and the feeling of being truly cared for by this wonderful group of people. As the van pulled away from Le Papillon for the last time, we all fell silent, each remembering special moments that we tucked away into our memory banks for future reference when we returned to our lives back in the states.

So….if you ever dreamed of a vacation where you don’t have to worry about anything, with a perfect setting, just the right amount of activities, delicious food, great companionship and the most wonderful people to care for you – Le Papillon is for you!

How can we ever adequately thank you for providing this incredible opportunity to us? We can only say thank you from the bottom of our hearts for this chance to experience the Papillon and for Larry and I to have a chance to reconnect again, spend some quality time together and remember what being in love is all about.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Cindy and Larry

Barge Cruising in Scotland On The Scottish Highlander

2008-10-07T12:08:00.057-05:00

By Debbie Vaci

My 2008 adventure took me and my sister-in-law Carol (who perfectly matched my hit- the-ground-running style of travel) to Scotland. Our eleven-night journey took in three separate cities – Edinburgh, Inverness, and Glasgow – and the barge cruise! We anticipated this trip for months but it far surpassed our expectations. We were so pleasantly surprised at the scenery, the history, and the very courteous and friendly people. The Scottish Highlander took us on the beautiful Caledonian Canal a series of four lakes (or lochs, in Scotland): Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Dochfour and of course the famed Loch Ness! We floated from east to west between Dochgarroch on the Inverness end and Banavie at the Fort William end. We found breathtaking heather filled mountains, bagpipe concerts, romantic castles, awesome waterfalls with rainbow backdrops and battlefields and museums filled with Scotland’s long turbulent history.

Edinburgh: We arrived on a Thursday and began sampling many of the fun-filled activities this city is so famous for. We immediately made our way to the Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s most historic street: anchored by the Edinburgh Castle on one end and the Royal Palace on the other. The Royal Mile is a hub of activity-loaded with street performers and a rare mixture of shops. It is here that J.K. Rowlings went to school. It is easy to see where she got her inspiration as we passed many magical and mystical shops. For sightseeing, I would recommend the late night haunted tour of the underground vaults and the great malt whiskey tasting. Walking to the train station on Saturday allowed us to shop along Princess Street before boarding our train to Inverness.

Inverness: We arrived in Inverness on Saturday afternoon. Just to get the feel of the place, we walked from the railroad station to the Glenmoriston, our barge pickup hotel. Our room had enormous windows over looking River Ness. We immediately set out to explore. Inverness was a charming, smaller city filled with weekend warriors. Boisterous singing and laughter could be heard from every local pub. We choose to stroll along the River and enjoy the beautiful scenery outside. Carol wore her “Ohio State Mom” sweatshirt. People approached us all day to talk football! That night I had to be dragged back to the hotel (it stays light almost 17 hours a day in summer) but we did have to be rested for our 7-day Scottish Highlander cruise!

Sunday – We board in Inverness: Pickup wasn’t until late afternoon so after breakfast I went shopping. I managed to find a local flea market located just over the bridge. It was fun bargaining in pounds. Yes, I did get some deals! For the shoppers, there were cute little streets everywhere with a variety of stores. We even found a two-story mall tucked in the corner but the day was too nice to be inside. The rest of the afternoon we sat in the village square listening to local musicians, sampling foods and just enjoying being part of the local scene.

At 4:00pm Captain Dan and Tour Guide Ryan met us in the lobby of the Glenmoriston and escorted us to the Scottish Highlander moored at nearby Dochgarroch. We were greeted with a Champagne Welcome and shown to our cozy rooms. The evening was spent getting to know our fellow passengers, who soon became fast friends. There were two other couples besides us. Ron and Pam were from Georgia and Nicole and Alain were from France. What a great mixture of cultures! Mealtime soon became my favorite part of the day, as our fellow passengers were so fun and interesting.

Monday-Dochgarroch to Loch Ness: Breakfast was creamy Scottish Porridge. Today we toured the 14^th century fairytale Cawdor Castle. Someone actually lives in this castle during the winter and opens it up for the tourists during the summer months. The inside was decorated with lavish tapestries and furniture while the outside had the most inviting and beautiful gardens. In the afternoon we also visited Culloden Moor, a new museum and battlefield site recreated to show the bloody battle fought in April 1746 killing over 1,200 in just one hour. It was the last battle to be fought on British soil. You really experience first hand what the Jacobites saw on this day.

We cruised across Loch Ness, which was much bigger and deeper than I had imagined. The Highlands are very sparsely populated. You see wonderful ferns, evergreens and beautiful purple heather wherever you look. That night we moored on the south shore of Loch Ness near Fort Augustus Abbey.

Tuesday-Loch Ness to Fort Augustus: Two of us were brave and tried kippers for breakfast. Everyone else ate a full Scottish Breakfast of eggs, ham or bacon. As we cruised up the staircase of the five locks leading into Fort Augustus, I felt like a celebrity. (People gather to watch and cheer the vessels coming through these locks.) We moored at Fort Augustus, a tiny town on the Canal between Loch Ness and Loch Lochy, and took off to explore. I found a wonderful glass shop and bought an adorable wine stopper. Of course there is always the shop for kilts and sweaters. There was also a free museum showcasing the canal. You would not know this was a small town from the amount of people walking around.

After lunch we returned by van to Loch Ness and toured Urquhart Castle which hugs the shore. Urquhart Castle is a ruin overlooking the most spectacular views imaginable. This was a magnificent day. The sun was shining and the wind was blowing making a perfect setting for photo shots. Not to mention this is a top Nessie-spotting location. No luck for us! We also toured Invermoriston Falls. This was another beautiful area with rolling waterfalls and hiking trails. It was great to get out and walk through the middle of all that nature. We returned to the barge moored at Fort Augustus and dressed for dinner out at the Boathouse Restaurant.

Wednesday-Fort Augustus to Cullochy Loch: Our van drove through the most dramatic views I have seen yet. Imagine being face to face with a rainbow! We were really high up in the mountains going through Glen Moriston as we drove to the romantic medieval Eilean Donan Castle, setting for the film Highlander. This 13^th century stronghold of the clan Macrae was a ruin until a complete restoration was done in the 20^th century. This is one of the most photographed castles in all of the U.K. because of its mountainous setting. We were amazed at the wonderful artifacts, furniture and photographs as we passed from room to room.

Carol and I went for a bike ride after lunch and found a great 4-mile long towpath. We brought the rest group back for a walk. Dinner was Turkey rolled and filled with stuffing. That evening we went to a very impressive Clansman Exhibit of the life and weaponry of the Clansman. The Highland people are very proud of their ancestry and try very hard to keep it alive. I enjoyed this demonstration immensely.

Thursday-Cullochy Lock to Gairlochy: We cruised through Lochs Oich and Lochy to Gairlochy. After breakfast we sat on deck and admired the scenery floating by. Our tour today was to the woolen mill at Spean Bridge that sells beautiful traditional knitwear and tweeds. One of our fellow passengers was on a kilt quest. The fisherman of our group, Ron decided to stay back and try his hand at catching us lunch. After our shopping spree Captain Dan let us steer the Scottish Highlander. Dinner was a Salmon dish, my favorite. We spent the evening playing games and cards. I enjoyed the spontaneity of the day. The crew was very accommodating to our wishes. Sara made sure we were always well taken care of while we were on the barge.

Friday-Gairlochy to Banavie: We went to Ben Nevis Distillery to see one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland. This distillery is nestled at the foot of Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, which has a summit elevation of 4,406 feet above sea level. It was fun to get an insight into the various stages of Whiskey making and a tasting was included. We returned to the woolen shop so we could finish up with last minute souvenirs. Someone suggested having an impromptu afternoon tea party so we picked up some scones and the crew surprised us with a magnificent presentation of whipped butter and jam. The crew was so sincere in making our trip memorable.

Tonight was the Captain’s dinner and we met at 6:00 for cocktails. While getting ready I could hear laughter coming from the cabin next door to me. We soon found out why. Alain, our mischievous fellow passenger emerged from his cabin wearing the kilt he had hunted so hard to find. We were having a great time sipping Champagne and laughing when suddenly we heard a bagpipe getting closer and closer. We had our own bagpipe concert right on the barge. He was the bagpipe player in the beginning of the Highlander movie. What a treat that was! At dinner, Captain Dan was a very charming host and surprised us afterwards with his own accordion solo. It was a wonderful way to end our stay aboard this charming country barge that we called home this week. Carolyn our Chef did a fantastic job and we all wanted to take her home with us!

Saturday-Arrive in Glascow: A very sad day as we ate our last breakfast aboard the barge. We left by 10:00am for the train station. All of us were on the same train to Glascow together. Our friends went on to Edinburgh. We walked to our hotel, which was a few blocks from the train station and right in the heart of the shopping and cultural district. We immediately went out walking around but one night just wasn’t adequate to see everything.

I was extremely happy with The Carlton George Hotel a four star hotel. The room was exquisitely decorated and included a complimentary minibar, a selection of teas and coffees, crystal decanters of whiskey, gin and sherry, robe and slippers and wireless internet. The staff was very friendly and helpful in every way. Also exclusively for Hotel Guests there is an Executive Lounge open from 4-11pm serving complimentary beverages and snacks. It is a wonderful relaxing atmosphere with an open fireplace. Most of the guests were waiting to be seated in the popular Windows restaurant located right down the hall. We choose to eat at the Waxy O’Connor’s which is 6 unique bars covering 3 levels that are linked together by a maze of staircases and passages. You enter Waxy O’Connor’s through a private door. What more could you ask for on our last day in Scotland.

Sunday-Depart to Chicago: Our sad farewell to Scotland. We were adventurous and took a bus from our hotel to the airport. It was amazingly easy. The bus stop was a block away, went straight to the airport, cost 4 pounds and had plenty of storage racks for luggage. We made it with plenty of time to spare. What a memorable and exciting trip!!!

Cruising in Champagne on an Ultra-Deluxe Barge

2008-09-04T14:48:00.032-05:00

By Ellen Sack, The Barge Lady Herself

Sunday – Paris Party Cruise
My husband and I boarded NOUVELLE ETOILE moored in central Paris, near the Opera Bastille. After being introduced to the crew – which included Dutch owners Jan and Diana Meijer; Chef Richard, whose cuisine I had enjoyed on other barges; Guide Thomas from Belgium and Hostess Marte from Poland – we quickly assembled for our private cruise through the heart of Paris. Thomas joined us on deck to point out such monuments as Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower – but my interest was drawn to the Parisians who flocked to the Seine. They frolicked at the “Paris Plage,” an artificial Seine-side beach; there was a serious group learning to tango; families picnicked, musicians gave impromptu concerts, and lovers strolled hand in hand.

After a two hour cruise, we returned to the harbor and our first gourmet dinner. The evening began with divine foie gras appetizers and drinks on deck. Although we were just beginning to get to know our fellow guests, our first evening together was an early one.

Monday – From City to Countryside: A Day of Contrasts
Captain Jan was in his wheelhouse promptly at 8:00am to begin the cruise out of Paris to our mooring in Meaux . I was also at work: enjoying my usual barging breakfast of bakery-fresh chocolate croissants!
In contrast to yesterday’s party, we now observed the “back to work” side of Paris! We cruised past office complexes, large apartment buildings, even industrial sites. Diana came out and drew our attention to a water-taxi taking commuters to work – while a Metro train passed on the bridge overhead. However, within 90 minutes we were in suburban Paris and then very quickly on the bucolic River Marne. Riverside towns and mansions floated by as the scene became increasingly rural.

After a buffet lunch on deck, we got off at a lock and were driven by Thomas to Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte, a vast complex built by Nicolas Fouquet, Finance minister of King Louis XIV. Fate was not kind to Mr. Fouquet – he was imprisoned after he invited the king to his chateau – warming! Using the same architects and garden designer, the king then built Versailles, an even grander version of Vaux-le-Vicomte!

Upon our return, Jan and Diana were pouring drinks behind the bar. Our group was champagne lovers, a happy coincidence given the route! Over another delicious dinner, we continued to have fun with our fellow passengers.

They were John and Sandy, celebrating their 50th anniversary in the company of their daughter Melinda and son-in-law Jim who were celebrating their 20th anniversary. Typical of barge guests, they had traveled extensively and were knowledgeable about food and wine. Our other guest Jean had also traveled the world, including several other barge cruises.

Another early-to-bed evening showed that our congenial group was there to relax.

Tuesday – Brie Cheese and a Gorgeous Cruise
We woke up to more village-baked croissants, as well as the regular breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, cereals, and yogurts. Also on tap was the Chef’s daily hot special, which today was miniature Dutch pancakes. Our morning excursion was a substitute for the usually-scheduled visit to a farmer who produces Brie cheese. (Mon Dieu – the farmer was on vacation – after all, we are in France!) Instead, we explored Meaux, which unlike many area towns was undamaged in both World Wars. After enjoying the local market and a Brie-tasting, we were treated to a fascinating tour of the Gothic cathedral, with its still-extant outbuildings and pristine garden. Our local guide explained that in the Middle Ages, simultaneous masses were held in every corner and that congregants worshiped with their dogs, cats and livestock in tow!

Upon return Captain Meijer began to cruise. As we lazed on deck, heavily-wooded countryside floated past. Adorable villages hugged the shore, fields were visible through the trees and patient fishermen waved as we passed. Tonight’s mooring was in the deep countryside – next to a fenced-in pasture. Amazingly, about a dozen horses ambled over to welcome us!

Wednesday – Champagne-Tasting and Chocolate Mousse!
The day began with our first champagne visit – to Fallet Dart, a small and family-run farm. Our charming hostess was Francine Fallet Dart. The farm produces 200,000 bottles yearly, most of which is sold in France – including to Nouvelle Etoile which offered their delightful bubbly all week! We were shown the old presses (which brought to mind Lucy Ricardo maniacally stomping grapes!), then the modern technology by which the champagne is produced, and finally, a walk among the vines, which had grown to full size only since early March. After we tasted several Fallet Dart champagnes, our hostess discussed the business, which has been in their family for generations! A remarkable glimpse into the world of small champagne producers – and one which provided a good background for tomorrow’s tour of Moet et Chandon.

We returned to lunch on deck and the afternoon cruise to Chateau Thierry through a gorgeous landscape of villages, vineyards, pastures, and forests. Even a late-afternoon excursion to nearby World War I battlefields, cemetery, and monuments could not quench our good cheer. Our delicious dinner was capped by a chocolate mousse so divine that I asked for seconds – and was allowed to lick the bowl, too!

Thursday – The Contrast of Moet et Chandon
Our group was becoming so comfortable that we agreed to a “bathrobes at breakfast” dress code. We spent the morning on deck as Captain Meijer cruised through the most outstanding scenery of the week. Vineyards, fields and farmhouses clung to distant hills, while closer in, villages and gardens lined the shore. A light breeze and the chirping of birds added to our pleasure as scenes right out of an Impressionist painting drifted by.

After mooring at the village of Damery and lunch aboard, we departed for our visit to Moet et Chandon in Epernay, another family-owned champagne house but a great contrast to Fallet Dart. Begun in 1793, Moet et Chandon was characterized from the beginning by international markets and high-level contacts (Madame Pompadour imbibed their bubbly, Napoleon and Josephine stayed in a house built for them in the Moet et Chandon complex).

We toured the cellars in which one billion bottles are stored in eighteen miles of tunnels! Sixty million bottles yearly are sold worldwide. Our welcome (which included champagne tasting) by a young British guide was professional but warm – This is an international operation for which tours are given in many languages. There was a great deal to talk about at dinner that night!

Friday – In Reims, Our Best Day Yet
The day began with an optional excursion to the tiny church of Dom Perignon, known as the inventor of champagne. We slept in, however, and arrived on deck in late morning. Jan had taken a detour along an adjacent canal, and we were floating in a silent world – but for Diana clipping herbs from the on-deck garden and then setting the table for lunch. Every day we were served a buffet lunch of homemade soup or quiche and a selection of pates, breads, salads, cheeses and fruit. Today’s soup was of cream of mushroom flavored with cognac and truffle shavings – absolutely divine!

After arriving at our last mooring in Cumiers, Thomas then drove us into Reims for what was easily our most interesting day. Thomas speaks five languages and has an advanced degree in European history; a background very helpful in Reims. We first visited the Musse de la Reddition, which in World War II housed General Eisenhower’s supreme headquarters. We toured the War Room (the original maps and charts still up on the walls) where the first unconditional surrender of the Third Reich took place in May 8, 1945. We then drove back to the center of Reims and the great Reims Cathedral, even larger than Notre Dame in Paris and where many French Kings were crowned. One could imagine these coronations in this soaring structure made even more beautiful by the large stained-glass windows.

That night, we were thrilled that Jan and Diana presided at dinner made festive by decorations and a special “anniversary cake” brought out by Chef Richard. Our cruise on Nouvelle Etoile ended in style.

Saturday – A Sad Farewell
We departed at 9:00am, arriving back into Paris at noon. Our adventure was over, but the memories will linger.

Ellen with her husband, Nick

Cruise on the Canal du Midi Aboard EMMA

2008-08-07T15:10:00.023-05:00

By Kelly Weiss

We boarded Emma around 1pm where she was moored in LaRedorte. From the moment we stepped aboard we felt welcome. Fellow Barge Lady guests from Buffalo, NY were on deck taking in the view, sipping Sauvignon Blanc. Liz handed my husband Tim and I a glass and informed us we would enjoy some cruising before lunch.

As we cruised, Liz sat and chatted with us and the others guest as if we were old friends. Liz’s warmth and wit add to the overall charm of Emma. Though we had boarded but 20 minutes prior, we felt like we had been there for days. After a short cruise to take in the tree-lined beauty of the Midi, we headed inside for lunch.

Inside the Emma a tone of warmth and welcome continue through her décor and very attentive crew. Emma is truly a home away from home on the water. Taking a seat at the table I immediately notice the plates – which I am told are different everyday (and equally charming)!

Anita introduces our first wine, a Rose from Corbiers, which is a perfect compliment to Liz’s homemade tapenade. (I make a mental note to ask for the recipe after lunch) Liz explains our lunch which was:

* * * * *
Homemade Tapenade with Bread

Spinach Leaf Salad
With Peas and Feta

Roasted Red Peppers
Stuffed with
Garlic, Tomatoes and Anchovies

Baby Beets and Radishes

Cheeses:
Sainte Marue de Touraine
(the best goats cheese I have ever had – I went back for seconds!)
Munster
Comte
* * * * *
It was all delicious – so much I found myself unable to stop eating – the peppers and tapenade especially!

Afterwards, Anita introduces the red we will be having with the cheeses – a wine called La Belle from the Cote d’Or. The cheeses are introduced as well, my favorite being a goats cheese – Sainte Marue de Touraine – with an edible brine made of ash and a straw in the center. It may sound weird, but it was unbelievable! – And this is coming from someone who is not a big fan of goats cheese. Of course I went back for more.

Afterwards, we went back on deck as Emma cruised down the Midi, navigating through a few locks. Passing through one set of locks I jumped off to get a picture as it was the deepest lock I have seen to date.

A little later it was time to bid adieu to our new friends on Emma. What a wonderful afternoon – we were sad to leave, but smiling from the memories we will not soon forget!

Ellen's Newest Feature Article

2008-07-29T23:24:00.008-05:00

Ellen was featured yesterday in a Peter Greenberg travel blog, dubbing her the reining expert on the subject of barge cruising. The article highlights the barge cruise experience and mentions a few of the barges and their personal and unique aspects.

To view this article please click here Peter Greenberg Blog and get yet another insight to what awaits you on your perfect barge cruise!

Cruising in Ireland on the Shannon Waterway

2008-06-25T08:01:00.061-05:00

More at Ease: Second Time in Europe
By Amy Aldrich

In April, 2008, my husband and I went back to Europe for our second trip, this time in Ireland on the SHANNON PRINCESS. Although Ireland seemed to have a different "feel" than Germany, we were more at ease and knew what to expect. We arrived on Saturday in Dublin and walked the town - which felt lively and full of raw culture with street performers and local crowds. It seemed a melting pot of different tourists and accents, and at the same time romantic with the open horse carriage rides available. I would definitely recommend at least a day in Dublin to get a sense of Irish culture.

Maybe because I have Irish ancestry and was born on St. Patrick's Day, I felt immediately at home and somehow more connected to this beautiful country. And, I LOVE the Irish accent!

Day One - Sunday
After a lunch of Irish lazagna and chips at what seemed to me to be the epitome of an Irish pub (and into which people began piling in to watch a soccer game on TV), we were met at the charming Aberdeen Lodge and transferred by Captain Ruairi Gibbons himself to SHANNON PRINCESS. Awaiting was our crew with a champagne toast to commemorate their first cruise of the 2008 Season! We dined while cruising the Inner Lakes of Rough Lee and onward to Athlone.
Athlone boasts a bar which claims to be Ireland's oldest and the contrast of a newly-built Raddison Hotel behind the 16th Century Shannon Bridge! Mooring here gave time for both walking the town and visiting the pubs as well as unpacking and getting to know our fellow passengers who would turn into friends by trip's end.

Day Two - Monday
A morning cruise heading south through Athlone Lock, lead us on our first excursion: Clonmacnoise, the remains of a famed 6th Century Christian settlement, included ruins of a castle, a monastery, chapels and graveyards.

Absorbing the history of this breathtaking landscape, and the numerous family members to this day being buried in the same grave, made us appreciate the struggles of the Irish people. Lunch aboard and an afternoon cruise brought us to our first castle, Birr Castle which is still occupied by ancestors of the original owners. We toured the 17th Century gardens and many acres inhabiting eye-catching waterfalls and the oldest telescope in the world. On return to the barge, we set sail for a late afternoon and dinner cruise though our second lock into Lough Derg and our mooring at Terryglass.

Day Three - Tuesday
This morning’s excursion began with a bus ride through enchanting countryside to Leap Castle, Ireland’s most haunted castle. The owner Sean Ryan, who played a few tunes on the Irish whistle, told us the history of the castle and the spirits that supposedly inhabit it. He let us tour the castle and the grounds which he is still in the process of rehabbing. We had the opportunity to meet his carpenter who looked like someone straight out of a 16th Century book with what looked like authentic Amish-style clothing. (We wondered what kind of tools he used!)

Lunch was off the barge today at the informal Derg Inn, where a burger and chips were in order accompanied by a Guinness or a nice glass of wine. We returned to Shannon Princess moored across from a gorgeous, green hillside, over which a rainbow appeared. It was amazing to see the entire horizon completely no matter which way you faced. It really made for some great photos.We were delightfully surprised this evening after dinner by a musical group who played traditional Irish music on a banjo, keyboard and tin whistle. They also sang a few ditties on request. A couple on board were celebrating their wedding anniversary and also her birthday which made it much more special for all of us!

Day Four - Wednesday
Cruising after breakfast today allowed us to visit on deck with other guests or, as some chose, time in the wheelhouse with the Captain. Captain Ruari and his crew - including his wife, Chef Olivia and sister-in-law, maitre'd Marina - were all knowledgeable about the areas through which we cruised. They all had a modesty about them and you could tell how much pride they take in the barge and how much it means to them as a family. After lunch, we departed for a visit to the Craggaunowen Project, an interesting Celtic Bronz Age settlement reconstructed. We toured an underground hut and were shown a boat about which it was claimed carried the true discoverers to America many years before Columbus!

Day Five - Thursday
After a leisurely breakfast cruise, Ruairi drove us through countryside once inhabited by sufferers of the famous Potato Famine. He gave us some history. People affected by the famine were housed and put to work - even the children - constructing the amazing stone walls which still extend as far as the eye could see. Something in me felt connected with possible ancestors being affected by this famine.

Our destination of Galway City changed the tone considerably, with all the lively shops and pubs, including our lunch spot into which we were accompanied by Captain Ruari. It was interesting to hear him talk about his many years as Captain, as well as the original SHANNON PRINCESS and the different clientele he has met.

We decided to spend about an hour after lunch exploring Galway City on our own. It was surprising to see the palm trees in the area, which Ruari informed us grow here due to Galway being so close to the Atlantic ocean.

We cruised the rest of the afternoon on the most beautiful part of the route as the land was closest on both sides, making it feel like a canal in France: only greener! This was the best weather we had all week and all of our companions enjoyed the top deck...the crew even held dinner for us as it was obvious we were having such a great time!

Day Six - Friday
Our last day brought us back on our route to Quigley’s Marina where we started. After lunch on board, we were again driven by our wonderful Captain to an interesting piece of history going back to 148 BC at the “Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre” which interprets an Iron Age bog road - excavated and preserved by a group at Dublin College in the 1980’s. The building in which we stood was built around the road itself, and looked down upon it from above.

We were honored to have Captain Ruari sit with us for dinner on our last evening on SHANNON PRINCESS, and as unassuming as his family is, they all came out tonight and shared more memories. It was truly a pleasure to be with this crew on their first cruise of the 2008 Season - I hope to have the opportunity to go back again!

Day Seven - Saturday
Back to Dublin
After a lovely breakfast, we made our way to the van which would now be driving us back to Dublin. As we said goodbye, we exchanged information with our new friends and thanked Ruari and his crew for a wonderful time aboard the SHANNON PRINCESS. Spending one more night in Dublin before flying home allowed us to walk the Temple Bar again and take in a few Guiness pints before turning in. We reminisced and agreed that our second trip to Europe was just as wonderful as our first!

Cruising in Germany on the Barge Charlemagne

2007-12-29T13:45:00.005-06:00

By Amy Aldrich
My husband and I went in July, 2007 to Germany on a boat called the Charlemagne, cruising on the Mosel River. We chose this particular itinerary to experience three different countries without packing and unpacking! We had never been abroad; in fact, this was the first flight I have taken as an adult and our first together. We flew out of Chicago on a Thursday evening on a non-stop overnight flight to the Frankfurt Airport in Germany…

Frankfurt, Germany
After surviving the flight, which was free of any problems anticipated, we checked into the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof Hotel which in itself was completely luxurious and posh with its figures and structure filled with history. We couldn’t ask for more in terms of comfort and old world charm.
We settled into our room, then decided to explore Frankfurt on our own and found a great little tavern not far from the hotel where we met an outgoing barkeep who spoke English with ease, and told us of the happenings in Frankfurt. We were instantly comfortable with her friendliness. Tom decided while we were in Frankfurt, this would be "our" place.
Day 1, Saturday - The next day we were met in the lobby of the hotel by our guide Solveig and taken by minibus to the barge in Metz, France. Here we were introduced to the other cruisers ranging from a set of grandparents to their three teenage granddaughters - we weren't the youngest on the barge! There were 26 passengers in total, many being retired couples and as we learned avid travellers. Kristof the barge manager and the rest of the crew were on board the Charlemagne to greet us with hors d'oeuvres and a champagne toast, followed by our first dinner by Chef Mario who came out to introduce each meal and took pictures of guests enjoying it! Julien, our wine connoisseur was quite knowledgeable in the regional wines served and made sure it continued to flow as long as the meal...by the end of the week, he knew who liked the white more and who liked the red. By the time dinner came, the conversations came easier as we became more acquainted with the other guests and found despite our age difference, we related to each other on another level.

Day 2, Sunday: Metz, France
This morning we awoke extra early for some reason, whether it was the excitement of being in Europe or adjustment to the time zones, we were up well before 6am and the wonderful staff was already waiting in the dining area with coffee and breakfast offerings. Our first excursion was into a small town in France called Metz where we saw La Cathedrale Saint-Etienne, a 12th Century cathedral which boasts being the tallest in France. Our passionate local guide described that it was also battleground used in WWII and the building still had the war wounds to prove it. As we walked and took in the beauty of the small town with it's winding pathways and gardens along the river, we came upon the Place de la Comedie, said to be the oldest theatre in France that still operates as such.

We used our free time in Metz to see some shops and meander down the cobblestone streets, meeting back on the Charlemagne for lunch and the privilege of meeting owner John Senior. Our first afternoon cruise down the Mosel River was on to our next destination of Remich about a half hour outside of Luxembourg. We were able to relax in Remich, becoming closer with cruisers with whom the conversations were becoming sincere and more personal.

Day 3, Monday: Luxembourg
This mornings excursion included a short ride by minibus to Luxembourg. Seemingly rich with tradition and history, Luxembourg holds one of many Notre-Dame Cathedrals which we had the priviledge of entering during a mass to see the amazing stained glass windows behind the golden alter. Where we stood close to the heart of Luxembourg to view the Pont Grand Duc Adolphe, an alluring monumental double arched bridge, was an interesting valleylike area with multiple tiers we had to explore. Luxembourg also boasted a square in the middle bigger than that in Metz, with many shops and eateries to choose from. After meeting back on the barge for lunch, Mario invited me into his kitchen to help with the dessert for tonights dinner. He had invited someone in each day and gave credit to whoever his assistant was that day when he introduced the dish they helped with. In the midst of all this "work" in the kitchen we enjoy another afternoon cruise into our next country to explore - Germany.

Day 4, Tuesday: Trier, Germany
This was by far the most interesting city for me just because there was so many things to do and see! We were given the choice of riding bikes or the minibus from our mooring point to the city of Trier, one of Germany's oldest cities, which presented itself on first impression with the Porta Nigra, or the Black Gate. This was the magnificent the leadway to the main Market of Trier or Hauptmarkt which was by far the biggest and most impressively colorful square for shops and people-watching. It felt almost surreal like we were standing on the set of a movie.
After a short tour of the market, we were led to the Dom St. Peter, built upon ruins of a 4th Century church. We also had free time in the Hauptmarkt to shop and sitesee before being taken back to the barge for lunch and our afternoon cruise. Being that my husband rode a bike and I took the minibus, we each had our own personal experience in this city and it was great to compare stories and learn that we just missed each other in the square! This really was a populated and modern city, (including many popular clothing stores and a McDonald's) despite the fact that some of the buildings predated Roman times. It was beyond my comprehension to see it all in one square! We enjoyed lunch on the barge and after seeing some of the prettiest scenery of our route on the Mosel River, we moor in Berkastel-Kues which to me was the epitomy of a little German town with its cobblestone streets and half timbered houses, each with their own touches of alluring flowers. With its narrow streets, it was hard to tell what was drivable and where we might meet up with a car.

We were given the reins on whatever we chose to do here as Kristof gave us a brief history and a suggested time to be back on the barge. After taking a jaunt together and talking to our children for the first time since being in Europe, it was obvious even to our new friends that we felt much more at ease. Tom and I split up, him going off with the guys for a German beer and me shopping with a couple of ladies for souvenirs.

Day 5, Wednesday: Cochem
We cruised our morning away, having lunch while cruising and spending time on the sundeck to take in the surprisingly many vineyards of Germany.
Early afternoon we came around a bend to find the breathtaking castle of Reichsburg Cochem which provoked everyone on deck to start singing "When you wish Upon a Star". We treked our way up and payed a small fee to tour this amazing 11th Century castle which really dominates the town with its towering majestic presence.
This was also the Fourth of July which was a bit odd not to have it be celebrated with fireworks, but as all the guests on board were American, we sang the Star Spangled Banner before dinner and after the crew brought out a sparkling dessert.
They announced that tonight we would have a host from a local winery come onboard and treat us to a winetasting. It was interesting learning about all the local wines from the area and the difference between them. We were able to purchase a bottle of Spatlese from Cochem and another couple bought us a bottle which we were able to fit nicely in our suitcase for the trip home. I think this was our latest night as we played games with our fellow cruisers and chatted with the crew until well after midnight.

Day 6, Friday: Koblenz
We cruised our way this morning to the point where the Mosel River meets the Rhine River - Koblenz, Germany - home of the Kaiser Wilhelm I Monument, the only place we saw an American Flag. Flags from all different countries waved here as it was seen as a sign of friendship and camaraderie. This city was a great place for our last walking tour and loads of free time afterward to admire the many statuesque fountains and incredible mosaic buildings, which seemed to appear around every corner and in crannies unexpected.
There was a great mural on a building accross the street from where we moored that really looked like a scene from a quaint cafe in town - it was hard to tell where the actual stone from the building ended and the painting began. After having lunch on the barge, we were able to peruse the shops in town, have a leisurely walk, or take a bike ride along the shore until it was time for the Captain's Farewell dinner later that evening. It was great to have the Captain and staff sit at our table to commemorate our truly extraordinary week on the Mosel River. I must admit it made me misty eyed to think that this awe-inspiring experience was coming to an end. There were many pictures taken and hugs shared before turning in as it seemed we had made some friendships that would last long after our journey would reach its finale.

Day 7, Saturday, Another Great Day in Frankfurt
We packed up after breakfast and were chauffeured back to the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof where we stayed another night in Frankfurt before flying back to the U.S. We did end up going back to "our" place to see if our new German friend was working again and to our delight she was. We thanked her for being so kind that first day and she decided to take us for a tour of Frankfurt which we would not have otherwise seen. We stayed out late our last night in Europe I think in the hopes that it would not end. To say that this trip exceded any expectations we had would be an understatement (considering we really had no idea what to expect). Any aprehensions we had were left back on day one when the staff of the Charlemagne set us at ease with their professional yet personal way of treating their guests. We felt like royalty throughout the cruise and would definitely recommend this romantic trip. In fact we would do it again in a heartbeat!

Cruising in Burgundy on the Barge Luciole

2007-12-21T17:39:00.003-06:00

By Debbie Vaci
In June 2007, I took a mother-daughter barge vacation in Burgundy, France on the Luciole and it was a huge success. I was looking for a vacation where I could spend some quality time with my daughter before she left for college. We both wanted to go to Europe so when an all inclusive French barge vacation was suggested, we decided to go for it.
We booked a trip in Northern Burgundy on the barge Luciole. Neither of us had any idea what to expect, but the thought of seeing the French countryside floating down the beautiful Nivernais Canal seemed perfect. We packed our bags and headed for Paris, France where our journey was to begin.

Paris, France
We arrived two days early so we could explore the streets of Paris on our own. I would strongly suggest this for anyone planning a barge trip. We had plenty of time to sightsee and get rid of the jet lag before our weeklong trip on the barge. For 12 Euros you can ride on the Batobus on the River Seine all day and get on and off at your leisure. We were able to easily see all the famous sights and explore neighborhoods and shops. Just walking along the River Seine eating ice cream is a great experience. We walked over to see the Eiffel Tower at dusk. It was amazing watching the lights come to life as everyone is cheering. Paris is truly magical.

Day 1, Sunday: Hotel Mansart
At 2:00 we headed for the Hotel Mansart. Here we met our fellow passengers in a private room, there would be 14 of us. I soon learned that we all had the same concerns about being on a vessel with such a small group. Within minutes the conversation was flowing easily and we all became acquainted. There were three other couples and another mother- daughter duo. We met Richard our guide, who chauffeured us to our final destination, the Luciole (moored in Auxerre). We were greeted with a Champagne reception and the smiling crew assured us that we were in excellent hands. Our first fabulous meal would follow shortly. As we sat on the deck enjoying our appetizers I could see a beautiful Abbey in the background. I knew we had made the right choice.

Day 2, Monday: Auxerre
After breakfast we were shuttled to the beautiful town of Auxerre. The gorgeous clock in the Town Hall was our entrance into the city. We were in the middle of streets lined with quaint shops and wonderful architecture. The shoppers in our group took off immediately while some people chose to sit at one of the sidewalk cafés and enjoy the scenery. My daughter and I would look for an internet café so she could stay connected to home. Back on the Luciole a most amazing lunch was served on the barge as we floated down the river. The atmosphere made it easy to meet our fellow passengers. We had a very active group that took full advantage of the great tow path along the canal. Every day after our meals we would all go out and explore by bicycle – or walk into the nearest town.

Day 3, Tuesday: Chablis
Our trip today was Chablis to the Laroche Winery. Our tour took us through the whole process of wine making. It was so fascinating to see. After own wine tasting we had time to walk around the town,: then it was time to head back to the barge. We were excited to see what was for lunch. I was beginning to see that meals were a major part of barging. You just don’t eat lunch - you experience it..
We learned the secret of French dining: relax and enjoy the company. The Chef comes out and introduces each entrée. The crew take turns thoroughly explaining the wine and cheese from that area. Conversations flowed easily as we ate and watched the countryside go by. I made it a point to sit by someone different day.

Day 4, Wednesday: Avallon
The morning trip was to the center of Avallon. Our visit began at a glass blowing shop the Verrerie d’ Art where the owner Olivier gave us a wonderful presentation. The tour was only scheduled to last 20 minutes but he liked us so much it was well over an hour. We were amazed at Olivier’s skill as he transformed the glass into marvelous pieces. A lot of my souvenirs came from his shop. We had time to walk around Avallon. I loved trying out my French on the local merchants. We stopped for another winetasting on the way back to the Luciole.

Day 5, Thurdsay: Vezelay
A 12th Century Basillica was our stop today. As we toured I was in awe of all the history around me. After the tour we spent time in Vezelay. I liked the time we had on our own. Keeping up with my daughter was a job in itself. It was fun comparing our shopping finds in the minibus on the way back to the Luciole. I looked forward to our relaxing lunch.

Day 6, Friday: Our final tour was to Chateau of Bazoches, home of Vauban, France’s great military engineer). We took a tour of the chateau and walked around the outside where the most fantastic view of the vineyards could be seen. The whole week the weather was perfect. I could picture a lovely lunch right here in the gardens. Our last shopping stop was in Clamecy. Everywhere in France the windows had the most gorgeous lace curtains. They were all so beautiful and not one was the same. I was on a mission to bring some of this lace home. In Clamecy I found the most exciting shop filled with every kind of lace you could imagine. What a great way to end my trip. We found our Internet café located at the top of a hill so we worked our way down the hill through all the shops. I don’t know if it was because we were leaving the next day or the town had so many cute shops but I definitely had a hard time getting back to the barge!

Day 7, Saturday: It was a sad farewell after breakfast. We took a group picture to remember our new friends, both passengers and crew. We were chauffeured back to Paris. We spent one more day of sightseeing before we came home.

This trip was so much better than I could have ever imagined. I was able to relax and enjoy my daughter, which was the point from the beginning. The other passengers were so interesting and our crew was utterly fantastic. My daughter wants to know where we are going next year! My son is leaving for college soon. What a great family tradition this could be!

Wall Street Journal Story

2007-12-14T18:29:00.002-06:00

A major career goal has been a writeup in the Wall Street Journal. So, I'm really thrilled that writer Marshall Crook featured our barge Elisabeth "Chocolate and Wine" cruise in his Travel Watch column, early December 2007. To read this piece click below.
WallStreetJournal

BARGING 101

2007-12-14T17:00:00.000-06:00

I am so excited to be featured in the December 10, 2007 issue of Travel Agent Magazine. The name of the article is Barging 101. You can pull it up online by clicking TravelAgentCentral

The author, Susan Young, asked all the right questions - and hopefully I gave the right answers to advise and inspire you!

We covered such important topics as:
-BEST PROSPECTS FOR BARGE CRUISING - "Baby Boomers plus 10 years are perfect for barging. These people (60s to early 70s) are retired but active, they own several houses, they're well-off, they have lots of time, they travel frequently, they've sold their companies and they are fabulous barge clients."

-THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BARGE AND RIVER CRUISING - "You can be three couples or a family and charter your own barge. That's a very different experience from being on a riverboat with 150 people!

-BARGE AMENITIES and FACILITIES - "Barges are more comfortable than most agents realize. We have Ultra-Deluxe barges with extramely large cabins and gorgeous bathrooms."

-DAILY LIFE ABOARD OUR BARGES - "Barges cover just a few 'slow' miles a day or 30 to 60 miles a week. Gourmet food and wine is a huge part of the barge experience. Guests sample 21 cheeses and 21 wines in the average week."

I would be most happy to discuss any or all of these ideas further -
Please call me at (800) 880-0071 and let's talk!

Personal best wishes for a happy Holiday Season and healthy New Year!

GO TO: http://www.bargeladycruises.com/ To see our full line of cruises available, tips and more!

La Chocolate Cruise for Chocolate and Wine

2007-11-29T12:21:00.003-06:00

"A Chocolate Cruise in France !"
ELISABETH, a French canal barge which charters for private parties of six guests, will offer a special “Chocolate and Wine” cruise in spring. Six-night cruises on the Burgundy Canal between Pouillenay and Tanlay begin Saturday, and run through the following Friday in both Spring and Fall, 2009. The canal is a two hour drive south of Paris. Owner-operator Peter and Sheena Jenner (British ex-pats who have lived in Burgundy for twenty years) will offer chocolate and wine tastings, on-board cooking demonstrations, chocolate desserts galore – and even lunch in the enchanting village of Flavigny where the film “Chocolat” was filmed. Regularly – scheduled excursions to romantic chateaux, a medieval Abbeye, and a Roman battlefield round out the program. The Burgundy Canal winds through villages, forests and fields. Walking and bicycling are available every day. The newly- renovated, 100-foot long ELISABETH carries up to six guests in comfort and style. Each of the three cabins has a private bath. Guests can choose to relax on deck, in the covered wheelhouse or in the downstairs salon. All meals are cooked on board by a dedicated chef. Call our office for the whole-boat charter prices which include chauffeured transfer to/from Paris; all meals; wine with meals; open bar; all excursions; all special “Chocolate and Wine” programs, and use of ship’s facilities such as bicycles.
GO TO: http://www.bargeladycruises.com/
Find ELISABETH in the Master Barge List. Or call (800) 880 - 0071 for a color brochure.

Barge Lady Charities Support Diabetes and Cancer Research

2007-11-29T11:53:00.000-06:00

The Barge Lady Charitable Giving Program
We've supported the cause of medical research for many years. Now we are donating to three exemplary organizations in honor of Barge Lady guests. These three medical conditions - Diabetes, Brain Cancer, and Breast Cancer, impact so many people including our own families and employees. We are proud to support:

Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation
JDRF is the largest private funder of diabetes research worldwide. It's mission is to research into the causes, prevention, treatment and cure of Type 1 diabetes. Since its founding in 1970 by parents of children with Type 1 diabetes, JDRF has awarded more than 1 Billion dollars to cutting edge research worldwide. The Barge Lady's 28 year old daughter has been insulin-dependent for 15 years (and fortunately is doing well), but Ellen believes in fighting back and has been very active in the Illinois chapter of JDRF. We thank John Senior of Canal and Company and Pete and Sheena Jenner for each donating a barge cruise. Three thousand guests attended Gala and an estimated 2.7 million dollars was raised. For more on diabetes research, Go to: http://www.jdrf.org/

American Brain Tumor Association
The ABTA was founded in 1973 by two Chicago-area mothers who had lost children to brain tumors. It's goals are to eliminate brain tumors through research and to meet the needs of brain tumor patients and their families. Fellowships, grants, medical student programs, epidemiology research and cutting edge research is supported by the ABTA. We will donate in honor of Barge Lady guests to the 3rd annual Brain Tumor Path to Progress Walk/Run - held in Chicago April 26, 2008 - and we also participated in the event. This is a cause dear to our hearts Go to: http://www.abta.org/ There is also an extensive education and support program.

Sunstone Cancer Support Centers
We became aware of the Sunstone Cancer Support Centers in Tuscon, Arizona through the involvement of a family member. She said; "When I was diagnosed with breast cancer, I was referred to Sunstone by my oncologist to help navigate the unfamiliar world of cancer. Sunstone offers weekend retreats for patients, survivors, caregivers, family and friends - as well as therapies and exercise classes. One pays what one can afford." We donated in honor of Barge Lady guests to the Celebration of Life Event on April 21, 2007. For more information go to: http://www.sunstonehealing.org/