Barge Cruising in Scotland On The Scottish Highlander

By Debbie Vaci

My 2008 adventure took me and my sister-in-law Carol (who perfectly matched my hit- the-ground-running style of travel) to Scotland. Our eleven-night journey took in three separate cities – Edinburgh, Inverness, and Glasgow – and the barge cruise! We anticipated this trip for months but it far surpassed our expectations. We were so pleasantly surprised at the scenery, the history, and the very courteous and friendly people. The Scottish Highlander took us on the beautiful Caledonian Canal a series of four lakes (or lochs, in Scotland): Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Dochfour and of course the famed Loch Ness! We floated from east to west between Dochgarroch on the Inverness end and Banavie at the Fort William end. We found breathtaking heather filled mountains, bagpipe concerts, romantic castles, awesome waterfalls with rainbow backdrops and battlefields and museums filled with Scotland’s long turbulent history.

Edinburgh: We arrived on a Thursday and began sampling many of the fun-filled activities this city is so famous for. We immediately made our way to the Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s most historic street: anchored by the Edinburgh Castle on one end and the Royal Palace on the other. The Royal Mile is a hub of activity-loaded with street performers and a rare mixture of shops. It is here that J.K. Rowlings went to school. It is easy to see where she got her inspiration as we passed many magical and mystical shops. For sightseeing, I would recommend the late night haunted tour of the underground vaults and the great malt whiskey tasting. Walking to the train station on Saturday allowed us to shop along Princess Street before boarding our train to Inverness.

Inverness: We arrived in Inverness on Saturday afternoon. Just to get the feel of the place, we walked from the railroad station to the Glenmoriston, our barge pickup hotel. Our room had enormous windows over looking River Ness. We immediately set out to explore. Inverness was a charming, smaller city filled with weekend warriors. Boisterous singing and laughter could be heard from every local pub. We choose to stroll along the River and enjoy the beautiful scenery outside. Carol wore her “Ohio State Mom” sweatshirt. People approached us all day to talk football! That night I had to be dragged back to the hotel (it stays light almost 17 hours a day in summer) but we did have to be rested for our 7-day Scottish Highlander cruise!

Sunday – We board in Inverness: Pickup wasn’t until late afternoon so after breakfast I went shopping. I managed to find a local flea market located just over the bridge. It was fun bargaining in pounds. Yes, I did get some deals! For the shoppers, there were cute little streets everywhere with a variety of stores. We even found a two-story mall tucked in the corner but the day was too nice to be inside. The rest of the afternoon we sat in the village square listening to local musicians, sampling foods and just enjoying being part of the local scene.

At 4:00pm Captain Dan and Tour Guide Ryan met us in the lobby of the Glenmoriston and escorted us to the Scottish Highlander moored at nearby Dochgarroch. We were greeted with a Champagne Welcome and shown to our cozy rooms. The evening was spent getting to know our fellow passengers, who soon became fast friends. There were two other couples besides us. Ron and Pam were from Georgia and Nicole and Alain were from France. What a great mixture of cultures! Mealtime soon became my favorite part of the day, as our fellow passengers were so fun and interesting.

Monday-Dochgarroch to Loch Ness: Breakfast was creamy Scottish Porridge. Today we toured the 14^th century fairytale Cawdor Castle. Someone actually lives in this castle during the winter and opens it up for the tourists during the summer months. The inside was decorated with lavish tapestries and furniture while the outside had the most inviting and beautiful gardens. In the afternoon we also visited Culloden Moor, a new museum and battlefield site recreated to show the bloody battle fought in April 1746 killing over 1,200 in just one hour. It was the last battle to be fought on British soil. You really experience first hand what the Jacobites saw on this day.

We cruised across Loch Ness, which was much bigger and deeper than I had imagined. The Highlands are very sparsely populated. You see wonderful ferns, evergreens and beautiful purple heather wherever you look. That night we moored on the south shore of Loch Ness near Fort Augustus Abbey.

Tuesday-Loch Ness to Fort Augustus: Two of us were brave and tried kippers for breakfast. Everyone else ate a full Scottish Breakfast of eggs, ham or bacon. As we cruised up the staircase of the five locks leading into Fort Augustus, I felt like a celebrity. (People gather to watch and cheer the vessels coming through these locks.) We moored at Fort Augustus, a tiny town on the Canal between Loch Ness and Loch Lochy, and took off to explore. I found a wonderful glass shop and bought an adorable wine stopper. Of course there is always the shop for kilts and sweaters. There was also a free museum showcasing the canal. You would not know this was a small town from the amount of people walking around.

After lunch we returned by van to Loch Ness and toured Urquhart Castle which hugs the shore. Urquhart Castle is a ruin overlooking the most spectacular views imaginable. This was a magnificent day. The sun was shining and the wind was blowing making a perfect setting for photo shots. Not to mention this is a top Nessie-spotting location. No luck for us! We also toured Invermoriston Falls. This was another beautiful area with rolling waterfalls and hiking trails. It was great to get out and walk through the middle of all that nature. We returned to the barge moored at Fort Augustus and dressed for dinner out at the Boathouse Restaurant.

Wednesday-Fort Augustus to Cullochy Loch: Our van drove through the most dramatic views I have seen yet. Imagine being face to face with a rainbow! We were really high up in the mountains going through Glen Moriston as we drove to the romantic medieval Eilean Donan Castle, setting for the film Highlander. This 13^th century stronghold of the clan Macrae was a ruin until a complete restoration was done in the 20^th century. This is one of the most photographed castles in all of the U.K. because of its mountainous setting. We were amazed at the wonderful artifacts, furniture and photographs as we passed from room to room.

Carol and I went for a bike ride after lunch and found a great 4-mile long towpath. We brought the rest group back for a walk. Dinner was Turkey rolled and filled with stuffing. That evening we went to a very impressive Clansman Exhibit of the life and weaponry of the Clansman. The Highland people are very proud of their ancestry and try very hard to keep it alive. I enjoyed this demonstration immensely.

Thursday-Cullochy Lock to Gairlochy: We cruised through Lochs Oich and Lochy to Gairlochy. After breakfast we sat on deck and admired the scenery floating by. Our tour today was to the woolen mill at Spean Bridge that sells beautiful traditional knitwear and tweeds. One of our fellow passengers was on a kilt quest. The fisherman of our group, Ron decided to stay back and try his hand at catching us lunch. After our shopping spree Captain Dan let us steer the Scottish Highlander. Dinner was a Salmon dish, my favorite. We spent the evening playing games and cards. I enjoyed the spontaneity of the day. The crew was very accommodating to our wishes. Sara made sure we were always well taken care of while we were on the barge.

Friday-Gairlochy to Banavie: We went to Ben Nevis Distillery to see one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland. This distillery is nestled at the foot of Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, which has a summit elevation of 4,406 feet above sea level. It was fun to get an insight into the various stages of Whiskey making and a tasting was included. We returned to the woolen shop so we could finish up with last minute souvenirs. Someone suggested having an impromptu afternoon tea party so we picked up some scones and the crew surprised us with a magnificent presentation of whipped butter and jam. The crew was so sincere in making our trip memorable.

Tonight was the Captain’s dinner and we met at 6:00 for cocktails. While getting ready I could hear laughter coming from the cabin next door to me. We soon found out why. Alain, our mischievous fellow passenger emerged from his cabin wearing the kilt he had hunted so hard to find. We were having a great time sipping Champagne and laughing when suddenly we heard a bagpipe getting closer and closer. We had our own bagpipe concert right on the barge. He was the bagpipe player in the beginning of the Highlander movie. What a treat that was! At dinner, Captain Dan was a very charming host and surprised us afterwards with his own accordion solo. It was a wonderful way to end our stay aboard this charming country barge that we called home this week. Carolyn our Chef did a fantastic job and we all wanted to take her home with us!

Saturday-Arrive in Glascow: A very sad day as we ate our last breakfast aboard the barge. We left by 10:00am for the train station. All of us were on the same train to Glascow together. Our friends went on to Edinburgh. We walked to our hotel, which was a few blocks from the train station and right in the heart of the shopping and cultural district. We immediately went out walking around but one night just wasn’t adequate to see everything.

I was extremely happy with The Carlton George Hotel a four star hotel. The room was exquisitely decorated and included a complimentary minibar, a selection of teas and coffees, crystal decanters of whiskey, gin and sherry, robe and slippers and wireless internet. The staff was very friendly and helpful in every way. Also exclusively for Hotel Guests there is an Executive Lounge open from 4-11pm serving complimentary beverages and snacks. It is a wonderful relaxing atmosphere with an open fireplace. Most of the guests were waiting to be seated in the popular Windows restaurant located right down the hall. We choose to eat at the Waxy O’Connor’s which is 6 unique bars covering 3 levels that are linked together by a maze of staircases and passages. You enter Waxy O’Connor’s through a private door. What more could you ask for on our last day in Scotland.

Sunday-Depart to Chicago: Our sad farewell to Scotland. We were adventurous and took a bus from our hotel to the airport. It was amazingly easy. The bus stop was a block away, went straight to the airport, cost 4 pounds and had plenty of storage racks for luggage. We made it with plenty of time to spare. What a memorable and exciting trip!!!

Cruising in Champagne on an Ultra-Deluxe Barge

By Ellen Sack, The Barge Lady Herself

Sunday – Paris Party Cruise
My husband and I boarded NOUVELLE ETOILE moored in central Paris, near the Opera Bastille. After being introduced to the crew – which included Dutch owners Jan and Diana Meijer; Chef Richard, whose cuisine I had enjoyed on other barges; Guide Thomas from Belgium and Hostess Marte from Poland – we quickly assembled for our private cruise through the heart of Paris. Thomas joined us on deck to point out such monuments as Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower – but my interest was drawn to the Parisians who flocked to the Seine. They frolicked at the “Paris Plage,” an artificial Seine-side beach; there was a serious group learning to tango; families picnicked, musicians gave impromptu concerts, and lovers strolled hand in hand.

After a two hour cruise, we returned to the harbor and our first gourmet dinner. The evening began with divine foie gras appetizers and drinks on deck. Although we were just beginning to get to know our fellow guests, our first evening together was an early one.

Monday – From City to Countryside: A Day of Contrasts
Captain Jan was in his wheelhouse promptly at 8:00am to begin the cruise out of Paris to our mooring in Meaux . I was also at work: enjoying my usual barging breakfast of bakery-fresh chocolate croissants!
In contrast to yesterday’s party, we now observed the “back to work” side of Paris! We cruised past office complexes, large apartment buildings, even industrial sites. Diana came out and drew our attention to a water-taxi taking commuters to work – while a Metro train passed on the bridge overhead. However, within 90 minutes we were in suburban Paris and then very quickly on the bucolic River Marne. Riverside towns and mansions floated by as the scene became increasingly rural.

After a buffet lunch on deck, we got off at a lock and were driven by Thomas to Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte, a vast complex built by Nicolas Fouquet, Finance minister of King Louis XIV. Fate was not kind to Mr. Fouquet – he was imprisoned after he invited the king to his chateau – warming! Using the same architects and garden designer, the king then built Versailles, an even grander version of Vaux-le-Vicomte!

Upon our return, Jan and Diana were pouring drinks behind the bar. Our group was champagne lovers, a happy coincidence given the route! Over another delicious dinner, we continued to have fun with our fellow passengers.

They were John and Sandy, celebrating their 50th anniversary in the company of their daughter Melinda and son-in-law Jim who were celebrating their 20th anniversary. Typical of barge guests, they had traveled extensively and were knowledgeable about food and wine. Our other guest Jean had also traveled the world, including several other barge cruises.

Another early-to-bed evening showed that our congenial group was there to relax.

Tuesday – Brie Cheese and a Gorgeous Cruise
We woke up to more village-baked croissants, as well as the regular breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, cereals, and yogurts. Also on tap was the Chef’s daily hot special, which today was miniature Dutch pancakes. Our morning excursion was a substitute for the usually-scheduled visit to a farmer who produces Brie cheese. (Mon Dieu – the farmer was on vacation – after all, we are in France!) Instead, we explored Meaux, which unlike many area towns was undamaged in both World Wars. After enjoying the local market and a Brie-tasting, we were treated to a fascinating tour of the Gothic cathedral, with its still-extant outbuildings and pristine garden. Our local guide explained that in the Middle Ages, simultaneous masses were held in every corner and that congregants worshiped with their dogs, cats and livestock in tow!

Upon return Captain Meijer began to cruise. As we lazed on deck, heavily-wooded countryside floated past. Adorable villages hugged the shore, fields were visible through the trees and patient fishermen waved as we passed. Tonight’s mooring was in the deep countryside – next to a fenced-in pasture. Amazingly, about a dozen horses ambled over to welcome us!

Wednesday – Champagne-Tasting and Chocolate Mousse!
The day began with our first champagne visit – to Fallet Dart, a small and family-run farm. Our charming hostess was Francine Fallet Dart. The farm produces 200,000 bottles yearly, most of which is sold in France – including to Nouvelle Etoile which offered their delightful bubbly all week! We were shown the old presses (which brought to mind Lucy Ricardo maniacally stomping grapes!), then the modern technology by which the champagne is produced, and finally, a walk among the vines, which had grown to full size only since early March. After we tasted several Fallet Dart champagnes, our hostess discussed the business, which has been in their family for generations! A remarkable glimpse into the world of small champagne producers – and one which provided a good background for tomorrow’s tour of Moet et Chandon.

We returned to lunch on deck and the afternoon cruise to Chateau Thierry through a gorgeous landscape of villages, vineyards, pastures, and forests. Even a late-afternoon excursion to nearby World War I battlefields, cemetery, and monuments could not quench our good cheer. Our delicious dinner was capped by a chocolate mousse so divine that I asked for seconds – and was allowed to lick the bowl, too!

Thursday – The Contrast of Moet et Chandon
Our group was becoming so comfortable that we agreed to a “bathrobes at breakfast” dress code. We spent the morning on deck as Captain Meijer cruised through the most outstanding scenery of the week. Vineyards, fields and farmhouses clung to distant hills, while closer in, villages and gardens lined the shore. A light breeze and the chirping of birds added to our pleasure as scenes right out of an Impressionist painting drifted by.

After mooring at the village of Damery and lunch aboard, we departed for our visit to Moet et Chandon in Epernay, another family-owned champagne house but a great contrast to Fallet Dart. Begun in 1793, Moet et Chandon was characterized from the beginning by international markets and high-level contacts (Madame Pompadour imbibed their bubbly, Napoleon and Josephine stayed in a house built for them in the Moet et Chandon complex).

We toured the cellars in which one billion bottles are stored in eighteen miles of tunnels! Sixty million bottles yearly are sold worldwide. Our welcome (which included champagne tasting) by a young British guide was professional but warm – This is an international operation for which tours are given in many languages. There was a great deal to talk about at dinner that night!

Friday – In Reims, Our Best Day Yet
The day began with an optional excursion to the tiny church of Dom Perignon, known as the inventor of champagne. We slept in, however, and arrived on deck in late morning. Jan had taken a detour along an adjacent canal, and we were floating in a silent world – but for Diana clipping herbs from the on-deck garden and then setting the table for lunch. Every day we were served a buffet lunch of homemade soup or quiche and a selection of pates, breads, salads, cheeses and fruit. Today’s soup was of cream of mushroom flavored with cognac and truffle shavings – absolutely divine!

After arriving at our last mooring in Cumiers, Thomas then drove us into Reims for what was easily our most interesting day. Thomas speaks five languages and has an advanced degree in European history; a background very helpful in Reims. We first visited the Musse de la Reddition, which in World War II housed General Eisenhower’s supreme headquarters. We toured the War Room (the original maps and charts still up on the walls) where the first unconditional surrender of the Third Reich took place in May 8, 1945. We then drove back to the center of Reims and the great Reims Cathedral, even larger than Notre Dame in Paris and where many French Kings were crowned. One could imagine these coronations in this soaring structure made even more beautiful by the large stained-glass windows.

That night, we were thrilled that Jan and Diana presided at dinner made festive by decorations and a special “anniversary cake” brought out by Chef Richard. Our cruise on Nouvelle Etoile ended in style.

Saturday – A Sad Farewell
We departed at 9:00am, arriving back into Paris at noon. Our adventure was over, but the memories will linger.

Ellen with her husband, Nick

Cruise on the Canal du Midi Aboard EMMA

By Kelly Weiss

We boarded Emma around 1pm where she was moored in LaRedorte. From the moment we stepped aboard we felt welcome. Fellow Barge Lady guests from Buffalo, NY were on deck taking in the view, sipping Sauvignon Blanc. Liz handed my husband Tim and I a glass and informed us we would enjoy some cruising before lunch.

As we cruised, Liz sat and chatted with us and the others guest as if we were old friends. Liz’s warmth and wit add to the overall charm of Emma. Though we had boarded but 20 minutes prior, we felt like we had been there for days. After a short cruise to take in the tree-lined beauty of the Midi, we headed inside for lunch.

Inside the Emma a tone of warmth and welcome continue through her décor and very attentive crew. Emma is truly a home away from home on the water. Taking a seat at the table I immediately notice the plates – which I am told are different everyday (and equally charming)!

Anita introduces our first wine, a Rose from Corbiers, which is a perfect compliment to Liz’s homemade tapenade. (I make a mental note to ask for the recipe after lunch) Liz explains our lunch which was:

* * * * *
Homemade Tapenade with Bread

Spinach Leaf Salad
With Peas and Feta

Roasted Red Peppers
Stuffed with
Garlic, Tomatoes and Anchovies

Baby Beets and Radishes

Cheeses:
Sainte Marue de Touraine
(the best goats cheese I have ever had – I went back for seconds!)
Munster
Comte
* * * * *
It was all delicious – so much I found myself unable to stop eating – the peppers and tapenade especially!

Afterwards, Anita introduces the red we will be having with the cheeses – a wine called La Belle from the Cote d’Or. The cheeses are introduced as well, my favorite being a goats cheese – Sainte Marue de Touraine – with an edible brine made of ash and a straw in the center. It may sound weird, but it was unbelievable! – And this is coming from someone who is not a big fan of goats cheese. Of course I went back for more.

Afterwards, we went back on deck as Emma cruised down the Midi, navigating through a few locks. Passing through one set of locks I jumped off to get a picture as it was the deepest lock I have seen to date.


A little later it was time to bid adieu to our new friends on Emma. What a wonderful afternoon – we were sad to leave, but smiling from the memories we will not soon forget!

Ellen's Newest Feature Article

Ellen was featured yesterday in a Peter Greenberg travel blog, dubbing her the reining expert on the subject of barge cruising. The article highlights the barge cruise experience and mentions a few of the barges and their personal and unique aspects.

To view this article please click here Peter Greenberg Blog and get yet another insight to what awaits you on your perfect barge cruise!

Cruising in Ireland on the Shannon Waterway

More at Ease: Second Time in Europe
By Amy Aldrich


In April, 2008, my husband and I went back to Europe for our second trip, this time in Ireland on the SHANNON PRINCESS. Although Ireland seemed to have a different "feel" than Germany, we were more at ease and knew what to expect. We arrived on Saturday in Dublin and walked the town - which felt lively and full of raw culture with street performers and local crowds. It seemed a melting pot of different tourists and accents, and at the same time romantic with the open horse carriage rides available. I would definitely recommend at least a day in Dublin to get a sense of Irish culture.


Maybe because I have Irish ancestry and was born on St. Patrick's Day, I felt immediately at home and somehow more connected to this beautiful country. And, I LOVE the Irish accent!

Day One - Sunday
After a lunch of Irish lazagna and chips at what seemed to me to be the epitome of an Irish pub (and into which people began piling in to watch a soccer game on TV), we were met at the charming Aberdeen Lodge and transferred by Captain Ruairi Gibbons himself to SHANNON PRINCESS. Awaiting was our crew with a champagne toast to commemorate their first cruise of the 2008 Season! We dined while cruising the Inner Lakes of Rough Lee and onward to Athlone.
Athlone boasts a bar which claims to be Ireland's oldest and the contrast of a newly-built Raddison Hotel behind the 16th Century Shannon Bridge! Mooring here gave time for both walking the town and visiting the pubs as well as unpacking and getting to know our fellow passengers who would turn into friends by trip's end.


Day Two - Monday
A morning cruise heading south through Athlone Lock, lead us on our first excursion: Clonmacnoise, the remains of a famed 6th Century Christian settlement, included ruins of a castle, a monastery, chapels and graveyards.

Absorbing the history of this breathtaking landscape, and the numerous family members to this day being buried in the same grave, made us appreciate the struggles of the Irish people. Lunch aboard and an afternoon cruise brought us to our first castle, Birr Castle which is still occupied by ancestors of the original owners. We toured the 17th Century gardens and many acres inhabiting eye-catching waterfalls and the oldest telescope in the world. On return to the barge, we set sail for a late afternoon and dinner cruise though our second lock into Lough Derg and our mooring at Terryglass.


Day Three - Tuesday
This morning’s excursion began with a bus ride through enchanting countryside to Leap Castle, Ireland’s most haunted castle. The owner Sean Ryan, who played a few tunes on the Irish whistle, told us the history of the castle and the spirits that supposedly inhabit it. He let us tour the castle and the grounds which he is still in the process of rehabbing. We had the opportunity to meet his carpenter who looked like someone straight out of a 16th Century book with what looked like authentic Amish-style clothing. (We wondered what kind of tools he used!)

Lunch was off the barge today at the informal Derg Inn, where a burger and chips were in order accompanied by a Guiness or a nice glass of wine. We returned to Shannon Princess moored across from a gorgeous, green hillside, over which a rainbow appeared. It was amazing to see the entire horizon completely no matter which way you faced. It really made for some great photos.We were delightfully surprised this evening after dinner by a musical group who played traditional Irish music on a banjo, keyboard and tin whistle. They also sang a few ditties on request. A couple on board were celebrating their wedding anniversary and also her birthday which made it much more special for all of us!



Day Four - Wednesday
Cruising after breakfast today allowed us to visit on deck with other guests or, as some chose, time in the wheelhouse with the Captain. Captain Ruari and his crew - including his wife, Chef Olivia and sister-in-law, maitre'd Marina - were all knowledgeable about the areas through which we cruised. They all had a modesty about them and you could tell how much pride they take in the barge and how much it means to them as a family. After lunch, we departed for a visit to the Craggaunowen Project, an interesting Celtic Bronz Age settlement reconstructed. We toured an underground hut and were shown a boat about which it was claimed carried the true discoverers to America many years before Columbus!

Day Five - Thursday
After a leisurely breakfast cruise, Ruairi drove us through countryside once inhabited by sufferers of the famous Potato Famine. He gave us some history. People affected by the famine were housed and put to work - even the children - constructing the amazing stone walls which still extend as far as the eye could see. Something in me felt connected with possible ancestors being affected by this famine.


Our destination of Galway City changed the tone considerably, with all the lively shops and pubs, including our lunch spot into which we were accompanied by Captain Ruari. It was interesting to hear him talk about his many years as Captain, as well as the original SHANNON PRINCESS and the different clientele he has met.

We decided to spend about an hour after lunch exploring Galway City on our own. It was surprising to see the palm trees in the area, which Ruari informed us grow here due to Galway being so close to the Atlantic ocean.

We cruised the rest of the afternoon on the most beautiful part of the route as the land was closest on both sides, making it feel like a canal in France: only greener! This was the best weather we had all week and all of our companions enjoyed the top deck...the crew even held dinner for us as it was obvious we were having such a great time!


Day Six - Friday
Our last day brought us back on our route to Quigley’s Marina where we started. After lunch on board, we were again driven by our wonderful Captain to an interesting piece of history going back to 148 BC at the “Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre” which interprets an Iron Age bog road - excavated and preserved by a group at Dublin College in the 1980’s. The building in which we stood was built around the road itself, and looked down upon it from above.


We were honored to have Captain Ruari sit with us for dinner on our last evening on SHANNON PRINCESS, and as unassuming as his family is, they all came out tonight and shared more memories. It was truly a pleasure to be with this crew on their first cruise of the 2008 Season - I hope to have the opportunity to go back again!

Day Seven - Saturday
Back to Dublin
After a lovely breakfast, we made our way to the van which would now be driving us back to Dublin. As we said goodbye, we exchanged information with our new friends and thanked Ruari and his crew for a wonderful time aboard the SHANNON PRINCESS. Spending one more night in Dublin before flying home allowed us to walk the Temple Bar again and take in a few Guiness pints before turning in. We reminisced and agreed that our second trip to Europe was just as wonderful as our first!

Cruising in Germany on the Barge Charlemagne

By Amy Aldrich
My husband and I went in July, 2007 to Germany on a boat called the Charlemagne, cruising on the Mosel River. We chose this particular itinerary to experience three different countries without packing and unpacking! We had never been abroad; in fact, this was the first flight I have taken as an adult and our first together.
We flew out of Chicago on a Thursday evening on a non-stop overnight flight to the Frankfurt Airport in Germany…

Frankfurt, Germany
After surviving the flight, which was free of any problems anticipated, we checked into the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof Hotel which in itself was completely luxurious and posh with its figures and structure filled with history. We couldn’t ask for more in terms of comfort and old world charm.
We settled into our room, then decided to explore Frankfurt on our own and found a great little tavern not far from the hotel where we met an outgoing barkeep who spoke English with ease, and told us of the happenings in Frankfurt. We were instantly comfortable with her friendliness. Tom decided while we were in Frankfurt, this would be "our" place.
Day 1, Saturday - The next day we were met in the lobby of the hotel by our guide Solveig and taken by minibus to the barge in Metz, France. Here we were introduced to the other cruisers ranging from a set of grandparents to their three teenage granddaughters - we weren't the youngest on the barge! There were 26 passengers in total, many being retired couples and as we learned avid travellers. Kristof the barge manager and the rest of the crew were on board the Charlemagne to greet us with hors d'oeuvres and a champagne toast, followed by our first dinner by Chef Mario who came out to introduce each meal and took pictures of guests enjoying it! Julien, our wine connoisseur was quite knowledgeable in the regional wines served and made sure it continued to flow as long as the meal...by the end of the week, he knew who liked the white more and who liked the red. By the time dinner came, the conversations came easier as we became more acquainted with the other guests and found despite our age difference, we related to each other on another level.

Day 2, Sunday: Metz, France
This morning we awoke extra early for some reason, whether it was the excitement of being in Europe or adjustment to the time zones, we were up well before 6am and the wonderful staff was already waiting in the dining area with coffee and breakfast offerings. Our first excursion was into a small town in France called Metz where we saw La Cathedrale Saint-Etienne, a 12th Century cathedral which boasts being the tallest in France. Our passionate local guide described that it was also battleground used in WWII and the building still had the war wounds to prove it. As we walked and took in the beauty of the small town with it's winding pathways and gardens along the river, we came upon the Place de la Comedie, said to be the oldest theatre in France that still operates as such.

We used our free time in Metz to see some shops and meander down the cobblestone streets, meeting back on the Charlemagne for lunch and the privilege of meeting owner John Senior. Our first afternoon cruise down the Mosel River was on to our next destination of Remich about a half hour outside of Luxembourg. We were able to relax in Remich, becoming closer with cruisers with whom the conversations were becoming sincere and more personal.

Day 3, Monday: Luxembourg
This mornings excursion included a short ride by minibus to Luxembourg. Seemingly rich with tradition and history, Luxembourg holds one of many Notre-Dame Cathedrals which we had the priviledge of entering during a mass to see the amazing stained glass windows behind the golden alter. Where we stood close to the heart of Luxembourg to view the Pont Grand Duc Adolphe, an alluring monumental double arched bridge, was an interesting valleylike area with multiple tiers we had to explore. Luxembourg also boasted a square in the middle bigger than that in Metz, with many shops and eateries to choose from. After meeting back on the barge for lunch, Mario invited me into his kitchen to help with the dessert for tonights dinner. He had invited someone in each day and gave credit to whoever his assistant was that day when he introduced the dish they helped with. In the midst of all this "work" in the kitchen we enjoy another afternoon cruise into our next country to explore - Germany.

Day 4, Tuesday: Trier, Germany
This was by far the most interesting city for me just because there was so many things to do and see! We were given the choice of riding bikes or the minibus from our mooring point to the city of Trier, one of Germany's oldest cities, which presented itself on first impression with the Porta Nigra, or the Black Gate. This was the magnificent the leadway to the main Market of Trier or Hauptmarkt which was by far the biggest and most impressively colorful square for shops and people-watching. It felt almost surreal like we were standing on the set of a movie.
After a short tour of the market, we were led to the Dom St. Peter, built upon ruins of a 4th Century church. We also had free time in the Hauptmarkt to shop and sitesee before being taken back to the barge for lunch and our afternoon cruise. Being that my husband rode a bike and I took the minibus, we each had our own personal experience in this city and it was great to compare stories and learn that we just missed each other in the square! This really was a populated and modern city, (including many popular clothing stores and a McDonald's) despite the fact that some of the buildings predated Roman times. It was beyond my comprehension to see it all in one square! We enjoyed lunch on the barge and after seeing some of the prettiest scenery of our route on the Mosel River, we moor in Berkastel-Kues which to me was the epitomy of a little German town with its cobblestone streets and half timbered houses, each with their own touches of alluring flowers. With its narrow streets, it was hard to tell what was drivable and where we might meet up with a car.

We were given the reins on whatever we chose to do here as Kristof gave us a brief history and a suggested time to be back on the barge. After taking a jaunt together and talking to our children for the first time since being in Europe, it was obvious even to our new friends that we felt much more at ease. Tom and I split up, him going off with the guys for a German beer and me shopping with a couple of ladies for souvenirs.

Day 5, Wednesday: Cochem
We cruised our morning away, having lunch while cruising and spending time on the sundeck to take in the surprisingly many vineyards of Germany.
Early afternoon we came around a bend to find the breathtaking castle of Reichsburg Cochem which provoked everyone on deck to start singing "When you wish Upon a Star". We treked our way up and payed a small fee to tour this amazing 11th Century castle which really dominates the town with its towering majestic presence.
This was also the Fourth of July which was a bit odd not to have it be celebrated with fireworks, but as all the guests on board were American, we sang the Star Spangled Banner before dinner and after the crew brought out a sparkling dessert.
They announced that tonight we would have a host from a local winery come onboard and treat us to a winetasting. It was interesting learning about all the local wines from the area and the difference between them. We were able to purchase a bottle of Spatlese from Cochem and another couple bought us a bottle which we were able to fit nicely in our suitcase for the trip home. I think this was our latest night as we played games with our fellow cruisers and chatted with the crew until well after midnight.

Day 6, Friday: Koblenz
We cruised our way this morning to the point where the Mosel River meets the Rhine River - Koblenz, Germany - home of the Kaiser Wilhelm I Monument, the only place we saw an American Flag. Flags from all different countries waved here as it was seen as a sign of friendship and camaraderie. This city was a great place for our last walking tour and loads of free time afterward to admire the many statuesque fountains and incredible mosaic buildings, which seemed to appear around every corner and in crannies unexpected.
There was a great mural on a building accross the street from where we moored that really looked like a scene from a quaint cafe in town - it was hard to tell where the actual stone from the building ended and the painting began. After having lunch on the barge, we were able to peruse the shops in town, have a leisurely walk, or take a bike ride along the shore until it was time for the Captain's Farewell dinner later that evening. It was great to have the Captain and staff sit at our table to commemorate our truly extraordinary week on the Mosel River. I must admit it made me misty eyed to think that this awe-inspiring experience was coming to an end. There were many pictures taken and hugs shared before turning in as it seemed we had made some friendships that would last long after our journey would reach its finale.

Day 7, Saturday, Another Great Day in Frankfurt
We packed up after breakfast and were chauffeured back to the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof where we stayed another night in Frankfurt before flying back to the U.S. We did end up going back to "our" place to see if our new German friend was working again and to our delight she was. We thanked her for being so kind that first day and she decided to take us for a tour of Frankfurt which we would not have otherwise seen. We stayed out late our last night in Europe I think in the hopes that it would not end. To say that this trip exceded any expectations we had would be an understatement (considering we really had no idea what to expect). Any aprehensions we had were left back on day one when the staff of the Charlemagne set us at ease with their professional yet personal way of treating their guests. We felt like royalty throughout the cruise and would definitely recommend this romantic trip. In fact we would do it again in a heartbeat!

Cruising in Burgundy on the Barge Luciole

By Debbie Vaci
In June 2007, I took a mother-daughter barge vacation in Burgundy, France on the Luciole and it was a huge success. I was looking for a vacation where I could spend some quality time with my daughter before she left for college. We both wanted to go to Europe so when an all inclusive French barge vacation was suggested, we decided to go for it.
We booked a trip in Northern Burgundy on the barge Luciole. Neither of us had any idea what to expect, but the thought of seeing the French countryside floating down the beautiful Nivernais Canal seemed perfect. We packed our bags and headed for Paris, France where our journey was to begin.

Paris, France
We arrived two days early so we could explore the streets of Paris on our own. I would strongly suggest this for anyone planning a barge trip. We had plenty of time to sightsee and get rid of the jet lag before our weeklong trip on the barge. For 12 Euros you can ride on the Batobus on the River Seine all day and get on and off at your leisure. We were able to easily see all the famous sights and explore neighborhoods and shops. Just walking along the River Seine eating ice cream is a great experience. We walked over to see the Eiffel Tower at dusk. It was amazing watching the lights come to life as everyone is cheering. Paris is truly magical.


Day 1, Sunday: Hotel Mansart
At 2:00 we headed for the Hotel Mansart. Here we met our fellow passengers in a private room, there would be 14 of us. I soon learned that we all had the same concerns about being on a vessel with such a small group. Within minutes the conversation was flowing easily and we all became acquainted. There were three other couples and another mother- daughter duo. We met Richard our guide, who chauffeured us to our final destination, the Luciole (moored in Auxerre). We were greeted with a Champagne reception and the smiling crew assured us that we were in excellent hands. Our first fabulous meal would follow shortly. As we sat on the deck enjoying our appetizers I could see a beautiful Abbey in the background. I knew we had made the right choice.


Day 2, Monday: Auxerre
After breakfast we were shuttled to the beautiful town of Auxerre. The gorgeous clock in the Town Hall was our entrance into the city. We were in the middle of streets lined with quaint shops and wonderful architecture. The shoppers in our group took off immediately while some people chose to sit at one of the sidewalk cafés and enjoy the scenery. My daughter and I would look for an internet café so she could stay connected to home. Back on the Luciole a most amazing lunch was served on the barge as we floated down the river. The atmosphere made it easy to meet our fellow passengers. We had a very active group that took full advantage of the great tow path along the canal. Every day after our meals we would all go out and explore by bicycle – or walk into the nearest town.

Day 3, Tuesday: Chablis
Our trip today was Chablis to the Laroche Winery. Our tour took us through the whole process of wine making. It was so fascinating to see. After own wine tasting we had time to walk around the town,: then it was time to head back to the barge. We were excited to see what was for lunch. I was beginning to see that meals were a major part of barging. You just don’t eat lunch - you experience it..
We learned the secret of French dining: relax and enjoy the company. The Chef comes out and introduces each entrée. The crew take turns thoroughly explaining the wine and cheese from that area. Conversations flowed easily as we ate and watched the countryside go by. I made it a point to sit by someone different day.


Day 4, Wednesday: Avallon
The morning trip was to the center of Avallon. Our visit began at a glass blowing shop the Verrerie d’ Art where the owner Olivier gave us a wonderful presentation. The tour was only scheduled to last 20 minutes but he liked us so much it was well over an hour. We were amazed at Olivier’s skill as he transformed the glass into marvelous pieces. A lot of my souvenirs came from his shop. We had time to walk around Avallon. I loved trying out my French on the local merchants. We stopped for another winetasting on the way back to the Luciole.


Day 5, Thurdsay: Vezelay
A 12th Century Basillica was our stop today. As we toured I was in awe of all the history around me. After the tour we spent time in Vezelay. I liked the time we had on our own. Keeping up with my daughter was a job in itself. It was fun comparing our shopping finds in the minibus on the way back to the Luciole. I looked forward to our relaxing lunch.

Day 6, Friday: Our final tour was to Chateau of Bazoches, home of Vauban, France’s great military engineer). We took a tour of the chateau and walked around the outside where the most fantastic view of the vineyards could be seen. The whole week the weather was perfect. I could picture a lovely lunch right here in the gardens. Our last shopping stop was in Clamecy. Everywhere in France the windows had the most gorgeous lace curtains. They were all so beautiful and not one was the same. I was on a mission to bring some of this lace home. In Clamecy I found the most exciting shop filled with every kind of lace you could imagine. What a great way to end my trip. We found our Internet café located at the top of a hill so we worked our way down the hill through all the shops. I don’t know if it was because we were leaving the next day or the town had so many cute shops but I definitely had a hard time getting back to the barge!

Day 7, Saturday: It was a sad farewell after breakfast. We took a group picture to remember our new friends, both passengers and crew. We were chauffeured back to Paris. We spent one more day of sightseeing before we came home.

This trip was so much better than I could have ever imagined. I was able to relax and enjoy my daughter, which was the point from the beginning. The other passengers were so interesting and our crew was utterly fantastic. My daughter wants to know where we are going next year! My son is leaving for college soon. What a great family tradition this could be!

Wall Street Journal Story

A major career goal has been a writeup in the Wall Street Journal. So, I'm really thrilled that writer Marshall Crook featured our barge Elisabeth "Chocolate and Wine" cruise in his Travel Watch column, early December 2007. To read this piece click below.
WallStreetJournal

BARGING 101

I am so excited to be featured in the December 10, 2007 issue of Travel Agent Magazine. The name of the article is Barging 101. You can pull it up online by clicking TravelAgentCentral

The author, Susan Young, asked all the right questions - and hopefully I gave the right answers to advise and inspire you!

We covered such important topics as:
-BEST PROSPECTS FOR BARGE CRUISING - "Baby Boomers plus 10 years are perfect for barging. These people (60s to early 70s) are retired but active, they own several houses, they're well-off, they have lots of time, they travel frequently, they've sold their companies and they are fabulous barge clients."

-THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BARGE AND RIVER CRUISING - "You can be three couples or a family and charter your own barge. That's a very different experience from being on a riverboat with 150 people!

-BARGE AMENITIES and FACILITIES - "Barges are more comfortable than most agents realize. We have Ultra-Deluxe barges with extramely large cabins and gorgeous bathrooms."

-DAILY LIFE ABOARD OUR BARGES - "Barges cover just a few 'slow' miles a day or 30 to 60 miles a week. Gourmet food and wine is a huge part of the barge experience. Guests sample 21 cheeses and 21 wines in the average week."

I would be most happy to discuss any or all of these ideas further -
Please call me at (800) 880-0071 and let's talk!

Personal best wishes for a happy Holiday Season and healthy New Year!

GO TO: http://www.bargeladycruises.com/ To see our full line of cruises available, tips and more!

La Chocolate Cruise for Chocolate and Wine

"A Chocolate Cruise in France !"
ELISABETH, a French canal barge which charters for private parties of six guests, will offer a special “Chocolate and Wine” cruise in spring. Six-night cruises on the Burgundy Canal between Pouillenay and Tanlay begin Saturday, and run through the following Friday in both Spring and Fall, 2009. The canal is a two hour drive south of Paris. Owner-operator Peter and Sheena Jenner (British ex-pats who have lived in Burgundy for twenty years) will offer chocolate and wine tastings, on-board cooking demonstrations, chocolate desserts galore – and even lunch in the enchanting village of Flavigny where the film “Chocolat” was filmed. Regularly – scheduled excursions to romantic chateaux, a medieval Abbeye, and a Roman battlefield round out the program. The Burgundy Canal winds through villages, forests and fields. Walking and bicycling are available every day. The newly- renovated, 100-foot long ELISABETH carries up to six guests in comfort and style. Each of the three cabins has a private bath. Guests can choose to relax on deck, in the covered wheelhouse or in the downstairs salon. All meals are cooked on board by a dedicated chef. Call our office for the whole-boat charter prices which include chauffeured transfer to/from Paris; all meals; wine with meals; open bar; all excursions; all special “Chocolate and Wine” programs, and use of ship’s facilities such as bicycles.
GO TO: http://www.bargeladycruises.com/
Find ELISABETH in the Master Barge List. Or call (800) 880 - 0071 for a color brochure.

Barge Lady Charities Support Diabetes and Cancer Research

The Barge Lady Charitable Giving Program
We've supported the cause of medical research for many years. Now we are donating to three exemplary organizations in honor of Barge Lady guests. These three medical conditions - Diabetes, Brain Cancer, and Breast Cancer, impact so many people including our own families and employees. We are proud to support:

Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation
JDRF is the largest private funder of diabetes research worldwide. It's mission is to research into the causes, prevention, treatment and cure of Type 1 diabetes. Since its founding in 1970 by parents of children with Type 1 diabetes, JDRF has awarded more than 1 Billion dollars to cutting edge research worldwide. The Barge Lady's 28 year old daughter has been insulin-dependent for 15 years (and fortunately is doing well), but Ellen believes in fighting back and has been very active in the Illinois chapter of JDRF. We thank John Senior of Canal and Company and Pete and Sheena Jenner for each donating a barge cruise. Three thousand guests attended Gala and an estimated 2.7 million dollars was raised. For more on diabetes research, Go to: http://www.jdrf.org/

American Brain Tumor Association
The ABTA was founded in 1973 by two Chicago-area mothers who had lost children to brain tumors. It's goals are to eliminate brain tumors through research and to meet the needs of brain tumor patients and their families. Fellowships, grants, medical student programs, epidemiology research and cutting edge research is supported by the ABTA. We will donate in honor of Barge Lady guests to the 3rd annual Brain Tumor Path to Progress Walk/Run - held in Chicago April 26, 2008 - and we also participated in the event. This is a cause dear to our hearts Go to: http://www.abta.org/ There is also an extensive education and support program.

Sunstone Cancer Support Centers
We became aware of the Sunstone Cancer Support Centers in Tuscon, Arizona through the involvement of a family member. She said; "When I was diagnosed with breast cancer, I was referred to Sunstone by my oncologist to help navigate the unfamiliar world of cancer. Sunstone offers weekend retreats for patients, survivors, caregivers, family and friends - as well as therapies and exercise classes. One pays what one can afford." We donated in honor of Barge Lady guests to the Celebration of Life Event on April 21, 2007. For more information go to: http://www.sunstonehealing.org/